So I went down trying to avoid a car that cut me off. I was going maybe about 25mph, luckily, so it wasn't a hard fall.
I got up got the bike right side up, and tried to start it, and it was turning over but not starting. So i figured the engine got flooded, pushed it to a side street and just waited. I waited 10mins and tried and still wasn't starting so i kept patient as to not kill the battery. and waited 15 more mins and this time it actually started. So i got on and rode it ~15miles back home. At first, it was pretty rough in first gear, kind of twitchy i guess. and the throttle wasn't as responsive as before. but after about 3 miles or so it seemed to be running fine. Then right before getting to my house I got around 2.5gal of gas. Got home, covered the bike and didn't really pay it no mind.
In the morning however, i could smell gas as i came out to the drive way and there was just a huge puddle of gas in the driveway and i could see it dripping out the left side (because it's on the kickstand). I hopped on it, when i put in the keys and turned it to ON the Fuel level was almost empty, whereas it was above the halfway mark the night before. Apparently it was steadily leaking all night. And when i tried to start it with no choke it wouldn't, and it was cold the night before. When i tried with just a little choke it started up, but was pretty weak, almost dying. And then it finally died, and wouldn't start up anymore.
I had work so i had to go, and left my oil pan under it. Right now(7hrs later), the leaking is less, probably because there's almost no gas. And when i tried to start it, it turned over a little bit and went quiet, almost as if the battery died out. so i tried it again, and it turned over, but made like a pretty loud knock so i panicked and let go of the button. I haven't tried to start it again. I am freaking out, i hope i didn't break my bike. :sorry: And my renntec bars just came too.
It is likely that one or more of the float needles has become stuck open in one or more of the carbs.
You can sometimes free them by tapping on the carb with a dowel or screwdriver, OR (if you can start it) disconnecting the fuel pump power and running till it dies from lack of fuel. Then when you re-connect the pump the onrush of fuel will flush out the detrius keeping the float needle from seating.
HOWEVER !!!!!! check your oil level through the window. If it is high (over the window), you might have also filled the crankcase with fuel. This can cause a hydraulic lock and bend or break a rod if not cleared first.
Take your oil fill cap off and smell... If it smells remotely like gas then do not crank it over. Your fuel has leaked from your tank through your carbs and into your oil and will cause a hydraulic lock that will break things. The low side most likely upset crap and it got stuck in your float needles allowing the leak down in to your crank case. Keep us posted....
thanks all for the replies. it's too dark out for any inspection now. and it smells like gas all around the bike so i don't wanna misdiagnose it. I'll wait till the morning and check things out more clearly. I hope that knock wasn't anything being broken off :shok:
Good call, don't be too aggressive and loose the goal... Be safe...
Sorry to hear of your accident. I am glad that you're ok. That is THE most important point.
There is something else going on with your bike, other than a stuck float bowl needle...or two.
Your '90 has a fuel pump and when the pump is shut off (key off) no gas should be able to get by the pump and flood your engine or driveway.
Yet it apparently has, so I would look for a leaking fuel pump. By chance, did the bike go down on its right side? That is the side where the fuel pump is located. Look for a cracked inlet fitting at the fuel pump, if not then the internal seals of the pump need fixing so gas can not flood your engine when the bike is shut off.
Good advice has already been given....You have a very real chance of having fuel in your crankcase.
Start at the top of the system at the petcock and fuel sender (gasket?) , fuel line, filter, another fuel line down to the fuel pump, the fuel pump, line going to the carbs and plastic "T". Then check the 2 over flow hoses (2 larger of the six hoses).
The fuel pump has a check valve in it to prevent fuel from flowing into the carbs when it is not pumping (not to sophisticated, just a small disk check valve). If fuel is coming out of one or both of the fuel over flow lines with power off then you have a needle and seat problem and a leak in the fuel pump check valve.
Check all the simple stuff first. Hoping that it will be a simple fix. Well its all simple, just some is quicker to do :good2:.
Most of all when you get her fixed let us know what it was..... Glad you were not hurt and it sounds like the bike came out OK also.
George
i opened the oil filler cap and it does smell like gas in there, checked through the window too it's passed the window and is brownish. So, i gotta first drain out the oil right? (Bear with me people, i am a total newbie.) I also, have just basic tools(mechanic's set).
also, should i hold off on mounting my engine bars?
@Pat: yeah i did fall on the right side.
Quote from: itsdrock on December 05, 2013, 02:30:38 PM
i opened the oil filler cap and it does smell like gas in there, checked through the window too it's passed the window and is brownish. So, i gotta first drain out the oil right? (Bear with me people, i am a total newbie.) I also, have just basic tools(mechanic's set).
also, should i hold off on mounting my engine bars?
@Pat: yeah i did fall on the right side.
No problem with being new. Asking questions is the right thing to do. Yes, I would change the oil and filter. Have you had any luck in locating your fuel leak ?
Try to locate the leak first (without running your engine) before you put the new oil in it.
I would hold off on the bars until the fuel leak is fixed.
George
Yes mate, drain the oil and remove the the filter too. Leave the drain pan under her and the drain bolt out.
Give each carb bowl a firm but gentle (does that make sense...lol) with a screwdriver handle or similar - not metal - to shock the floats loose.
Take the spark plugs out, disconnect the electrics going to the fuel pump and spin the motor over with the starter......any fuel still in the cylinders will shoot out the plug holes so don't be lookin in the plug holes when you do this. (I think that knock that you first described when trying to start her was a hydraulic lockup).
Leave it for a few hours (overnight?) like this to let it fully drain.
Replace the drain plug (new washer) and fit a new filter. Refill with your preferred flavor of oil.
Spin her over with the starter for a 1/2 min or there abouts to pump the oil through the motor and then replace the spark plugs. Spin her over again with the starter - if she spins freely, you can now re-connect the fuel pump.
Let us know how you go.
HTH
Harvy
If you take the spark plugs out and crank the motor over, be sure to disconnect the coil power wires first! This is best done with the fuel tank off. The 2 coil power connectors are under the tank near the steering head (look for the white wire with red stripe). This will keep you from damaging the coils and prevent any accidental flames from igniting residual fuel that comes shooting out of the cylinders.
Yep, when in doubt, get some fresh oil and a filter in there.
Put 1/2 gallon of fresh gas in your fuel tank.
Do not ride your bike.
You've got to find the source of the fuel leak.
Take your seat and side panels off and with a flashlight find where the fuel leak is coming from.
If you can't see it from looking in the side, unfasten your tank and rotate it around 180 degrees and rest the tank on your subframe (tank front facing rear) to get a clear look at your fuel delivery system....try to start the bike and check again.
If you can't find the leak, to be safe, be sure to drain your tank or pinch off the fuel line, so it won't flow gas in your engine and contaminate your fresh oil.
Don't give up.
alright so i just went ahead, shut off the fuel and took the tank off, then drained the oil(still draining). From what i could tell, i only saw gas coming out of a hose that's connected to the carburetor on the right side. i was gonna start taking the spark plugs out, but the sun is going down, and i don't have any good light source in the driveway. i figure i can completely drain all the oil overnight and get to work checking out the spark plugs tomorrow morning.
Do y'all think it's necessary to replace the oil filter? I had it changed maybe ~200miles(1month) ago. Also, i noticed the fuel filter under the tank is some orange color, and don't know if that's normal :unknown:. I put a golf tee looking metal part in the open end of the disconnected fuel line to keep from foreign objects entering, but left the fuel filter open(i have nothing small enough to plug it with.)
I put the seat and tank back in place(all the lines disconnected) covered it and left it for the night.
Any advice for tomorrow would be greatly appreciated. :good2:
Quote from: itsdrock on December 05, 2013, 06:35:39 PM
Any advice for tomorrow would be greatly appreciated. :good2:
A good night's sleep, wake up with a clear head and all the thinking power to be a problem solver.
Itsdrock,
I don't know why nobody is saying this, but your fuel pump should be blocking fuel flow, when the pump is shut off (no key on). If it passes fuel then (siphoning), the pump is not working correctly. Beyond that, if fuel is filling your crankcase (overfull at the oil-level sight-window), a carb float or needle-and-seat is stuck, and a can of Seafoam might fix it, or you may need a carb cleaning. Gas on the ground and in the oil says that there are two problems: the fuel pump is bad, and one or more of the carbs need some attention (or at least some Seafoam). All the other stuff here comes later. Hope that helps.
Red
Quote from: red on December 05, 2013, 11:39:06 PM
I don't know why nobody is saying this, but your fuel pump should be blocking fuel flow, when the pump is shut off (no key on). If it passes fuel then (siphoning), the pump is not working correctly.....
Aww hell, how did we miss that?
Quote from: Pat Conlon on December 06, 2013, 12:00:19 AM
Quote from: red on December 05, 2013, 11:39:06 PM
I don't know why nobody is saying this, but your fuel pump should be blocking fuel flow, when the pump is shut off (no key on). If it passes fuel then (siphoning), the pump is not working correctly.....
Aww hell, how did we miss that?
ummmm (popcorn)...
George
do i need to drain out the carbs before i crank it with spark plugs off? and if so, i'm not too sure how to do that. also, is it ok to crank the motor with no oil in it? wouldn't grind or something?
Do not crack it with no oil it...... Don't worry about draining your float bowels. Don't grind on it... Just a revolution or two is all you would need. I suspect when you drained your oil any gas if any in the cylinders drained out.
Just for education while you have the fuel tank off take a look at the petcock. You will see a flat square white plastic end on it with a slot for a screwdriver. That will turn your fuel off and on at the tank manually. I just mention that because you are new to the FJ. :good2:
George
Quote from: movenon on December 06, 2013, 09:44:37 AM
Do not crack it with no oil it...... Don't worry about draining your float bowels. Don't grind on it... Just a revolution or two is all you would need. I suspect when you drained your oil any gas if any in the cylinders drained out.
Just for education while you have the fuel tank off take a look at the petcock. You will see a flat square white plastic end on it with a slot for a screwdriver. That will turn your fuel off and on at the tank manually. I just mention that because you are new to the FJ. :good2:
George
I misspoke on the manual shut off, because of where it is located you will have to use a 10mm wrench to turn the valve off or on... Might be handy to know as you trouble shoot your fuel leak, so you quickly know what it takes. :good2:.
George
thanks for the responses guys. it's gonna be a late start for me today(had a bunch of stuff to do). So i should just barely hit the starter with no oil and no filter huh?
also, if the fuel pump is busted, can it be repaired or do i need to replace it? and is it spendy? i'm a student so every dollar counts :cray:
and another thing. is it alright to use the seafoam? because i read in the owner's manual to not add any additives, as it may cause clutch slippage. and if so, where do i put it in? in the tank, into the oil filler?
Quote from: itsdrock on December 06, 2013, 05:08:13 PM
thanks for the responses guys. it's gonna be a late start for me today(had a bunch of stuff to do). So i should just barely hit the starter with no oil and no filter huh?
also, if the fuel pump is busted, can it be repaired or do i need to replace it? and is it spendy? i'm a student so every dollar counts :cray:
In my opinion
DO NOT turn the engine over until you have oil back in it.... Please... In fact the odds of any fuel remaining in the upper cylinders is remote since you have drained the oil out. I personally wouldn't bother except to squirt a little oil in the cylinders if I was convinced fuel went down that way.
If the fuel pump is leaking fuel then it is toast. Non repairable. It is replaceable. But going down that path at this point is a waist of time. From the point you are right now:
Change the oil and filter (do not turn the engine over without oil in it)
Optional: squirt some oil in the cylinders
Check all your hoses and fittings.
Manually turn the fuel off at the petcock
Put in at least 2 or 3 gallons of fuel
Have flashlight in hand
Do not start the engine
Turn on the petcock and start looking for your fuel leak. Start at the top and work your way down.
If you find the leak turn off your petcock (unless you want to change oil again or have a mess on the ground) and repair as required
Stop there and report what you find... That's the best I can explain it. If it is leaking as fast as you say then it should be easy to locate.
As a suggestion also before you start looking for the leak try to locate the 2 larger black drain hoses from under your carb's. You just want to know where they are so you can have a look at them in your trouble shooting. You will have 4 small vent hoses and the 2 larger overflow hoses. All you want to locate is the 2 larger ones.
At this point don't worry about Seafoam or additives... They are not going to fix the problem. Flashlight and "Mark 2 eye balls" is all you need right now.
George
thanks George. i will do that. spinning it with no oil sounded kinda scary haha.
so, i'll go ahead add the oil. if i turned the fuel valve to "off" on the fuel tank, do i also need to go ahead and turn off the petcock too?
i'm also a little confused about turning the fuel back. if i turn it back on wouldn't go and contaminate my new oil, while i look for the leak? or do you think it won't get into the oil this time? and about tapping on the carbs, i'm supposed to hit the 4 round bowl looking things on top of the carbs am i right? and how do i know if i shocked the floats loose? or do i just hope it got loose? Carburetors are so confusing :unknown:
Plus,is there anyway to visually tell if the pump is busted?
I have so many questions....and so eager to get her up and running again. it was running so well till now.
Quote from: itsdrock on December 06, 2013, 06:35:15 PM
thanks George. i will do that. spinning it with no oil sounded kinda scary haha.
so, i'll go ahead add the oil. if i turned the fuel valve to "off" on the fuel tank, do i also need to go ahead and turn off the petcock too?
i'm also a little confused about turning the fuel back. if i turn it back on wouldn't go and contaminate my new oil, while i look for the leak? or do you think it won't get into the oil this time? and about tapping on the carbs, i'm supposed to hit the 4 round bowl looking things on top of the carbs am i right? and how do i know if i shocked the floats loose? or do i just hope it got loose? Carburetors are so confusing :unknown:
Plus,is there anyway to visually tell if the pump is busted?
I have so many questions....and so eager to get her up and running again. it was running so well till now.
First, the petcock is the fuel valve (one in the same). On/off
If you let it drain for an extended time it could go back into the oil. It would take a while... Shouldn't take that long to locate a leak. would have been better to focus on the fuel leak before changing the oil.
Tapping on the carbs referrers to tapping on the
bottom bowels not the top of the carbs. (to help free up a needle and seat, sometimes it works).
If one of the needle and seats are stuck open fuel will come out one or both of the overflow hoses. The 2 larger drain hoses coming the the bottom of the carbs. That's why I want you to locate them. IF fuel is coming out that point then you can try to tap on the bowels to free up the needle. If it reseats then fuel will stop flowing. If not you will have to remove the carbs and clean and adjust. Lets don't go there yet...
Right now you just want to know where it is leaking. Then you can shut the fuel off and report from there. One step at a time.
There are various tests for the fuel pump but for now the easiest thing to do is just make sure it is hooked up and look for a fuel leak. That's the first problem THEN you can go into what it takes to fix it.
George
there's a big black plastic box thing(air filter/airbox?) right behind the carb that's obstructing my view from seeing the hoses. is it ok to remove this to get a better look? i noticed it's connected to each carb, and i don't wanna take it off it's gonna mess with the sync of the carbs or anything.
George: so you're telling me i should run the fuel before adding the oil(with the drain plug and filter still off)? i haven't put in any oil yet, i've been just visually inspecting it. i only can see one hose clearly, and that's the one i mentioned before(connected on the right side of the carb, about the same size as the fuel tank breather hose, and it's nestled directly behind the carb.) i couldn't see the others to see if they were leaking.
To tell if fuel is getting past the pump when not running;
1- turn off fuel petcock on tank
2-remove hose from outlet side of pump
3- open fuel petcock
Does fuel come out of pump outlet?
Yes- replace pump
No- reinstall hose on pump outlet
If it was my bike, after determining that pump is OK I would;
DO NOT START OR ATTEMPT TO START THE BIKE UNTIL YOU GET THIS SORTED OUT.
DO NOT PUT FRESH OIL/FILTER IN UNTIL YOU ARE CERTAIN CARBS ARE NOT OVFERFILLING
DO ADD CLEAN OIL/FILTER AFTER YOU ARE SURE THE PROBLEM IS FIXED AND YOU ARE READY TO START THE ENGINE
1- drain all 4 float bowls, then close the drain screws
2- open the fuel petcock on tank
3-turn ignition key on, you should hear the pump running. at this time look for external leaks at all fuel hoses.
Note: if any leaks are seen, turn ignition key off. fix the leak, repeat step 3
Note: if no external leaks are detected and after the carbs are full of fuel the pump SHOULD turn itself off.start looking for signs of fuel coming from the overflow hoses, tap on the carbs to try and dislodge any crap that might be in the float needle seat.
if this does not work. drain the carbs again,and again and hopefully this draining and refilling repetition will flush all the bad stuff out.
while you are in there it would be wise to replace the fuel filter, they are cheap and you are already in there.
I wouldn't mess around with any seafoam or additives at this point. if you suspect bad gas, dirty tank drain it, flush it
and change the filter.
hopefully this solves your leaks and you can get back to your studies.
let us know how you make out and GOOD LUCK!
Scott
Thanks Scott :good2:
Here is a picture of the carbs from the rear. The hose in the center with the braided covering is the fuel inlet coming from the fuel pump.
The larger lines , one between carbs 1&2 and one between carbs 3&4 are the bowel overflow hoses. They are the ones that will leak IF a needle and seat leaks. The other 4 smaller hoses are air vents for the choke's.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/1651_28_11_13_5_59_52.jpeg)
Yes it's hard to see them but they are there. As to the air box, it is a pain in the ass but can be removed. If your carbs have to be removed then the box has to be pulled. Don't do it yet. FIRST figure out where the fuel is leaking........ :good2:
George
Itsdrock,
WHERE are you located? not asking for your street address, just the town/suburb name.
Perhaps one of the experienced FJ owner/mechanics on this list would be willing to help you.
At this point, you've had a lot of advice, most of it good but you seem not to have had enough experience to understand what they are trying to tell you. That's ok, we all started at the same point - clueless, but before you either get frustrated and take your bike to a stealer (dealer) or do something damaging, get some help.
Arnie
I went out and bought a torque wrench, 4qts of oil, and an oil filter. I should be ready to handle most obstacles i may encounter tomorrow. since i have the tank off, i figure it will be best to clean out the gas tank too. It might be a little rusty on the inside, could that be messing with the carbs?
Scott: Thanks for the input, i shall try what you said.
George: I couldn't really see if the 2 bowl overflow hoses were leaking. However, the thin hose(on the very right side of your pic) for sure had fuel dripping out. I understand how it could leak out through there when it's on the side, but why when it's upright?
Arnie: I am in Santa Ana.
"However, the thin hose(on the very right side of your pic) for sure had fuel dripping out."
If that the case the larger hose on the right side should also be leaking fuel.. The carb all the way to the right is your #4 carb. From what you are telling me that is the suspect of your leak. I don't know if I would waste to much time trying to clean your tank. You might cause more problems that want to get into. You might consider putting a new fuel filter in.
I am thinking your # 4 carb needle has stuck open or float is holding it open and is leaking. If its leaking try the tapping trick on the #4 carb bowl after you get gas in it.
Now not to confuse things. When there is no power on the bike your fuel pump should prevent fuel flow down to the carbs and if it is leaking then the check valve inside the fuel pump has a problem.
With the engine OFF if you remove the fuel line from the pump going to your carbs only a small amount of fuel should come out and then stop.
The fuel pump shut off is a safety feature. If it wasn't there or didn't work then the only thing stopping fuel from dumping into your carbs and engine is the needle and seats in the carbs. If the the needle and seat fails / stuck float then you get unrestricted fuel flow into the carbs and engine as you are probably experiencing.
Try to tap the #4 carb bowl and get it to stop leaking. Then there is nothing lost buy tapping on the front of the fuel pump to see if you can get it to seal.
The valve inside the fuel pump is a small spring loaded disk and could get stuck or cocked. When we say tap, that doesn't mean beat the crap out of it, just tap in a vibrating rhythm. As was suggested in the past a small steel rod is nice for this.
And no you can't go in and fix the shut off valve in the fuel pump, it's in a crimped sealed unit. Once inside you would probably never get it back together.
First thing is to get the carb from leaking. When that happens then until you are convinced the fuel pump is working properly, each time you park the bike I would recommend that you manually turn the fuel off at the petcock. Other wise you risk a needle and seat failer again causing the problem you have currently. Not to mention a fire hazard. Or if your bike is out in a parking lot leaking 5 gallons of gas on the ground and some tree hugger calls the hazardous response folks / fire dept and they kindly hand you a bill for there services after they clean up the fuel. Stranger things have happened.. :drinks: :bye2:
George
Quote from: itsdrock on December 06, 2013, 05:25:45 PMand another thing. is it alright to use the seafoam? because i read in the owner's manual to not add any additives, as it may cause clutch slippage. and if so, where do i put it in? in the tank, into the oil filler?
itsdrock,
The Seafoam additive is only for the fuel, either in the tank or in a separate (temporary) fuel can, with a gravity-feed line into the carbs. Seafoam may save you from having the carbs dis-assembled, if the problem there is just a gummed-up needle-and-seat. Let the fuel-and-Seafoam mixture flow into the bad carb for a while, shut off the fuel, then let everything sit overnight. If that stuff does not get the float and needle-and-seat working again, you will need to get the carb cleaned (inside) by hand. In the morning, let the fuel flow again, and tap on the bad carb for a bit. Hopefully, the needle-and-seat will break loose (if it was stuck) and the float will work normally again, shutting off the fuel that had been leaking through the carb. As a new owner, carb repairs are what you do when all else has failed. Maybe you will want to have the carb repair work done by an experienced tech, one who can balance the carbs after the job is done. I'm just trying to keep things as simple (and cheap) as possible for you, by saying to try the Seafoam first.
Oil additives may or may not cause the clutch to slip, but that does not apply here. Use only normal oils (petroleum or synthetic), to the owners' manual specs, in the FJ.
Cheers,
Red
i took a very close look at those hoses. tried running some fuel trough to the carbs without starting the engine. i turned the switch to ON with the petcock on, and i heard the pump make it's usually noise for about 2 seconds. and as soon as i turned it to ON, i could see fuel dripping out of that thin hose as i said before. Then i i tried with the valve off, same thing, same hose. I even tried by disconnecting the fuel line from the petcock. and still when i turned the key i could see little drips coming out and stop once i turn the switch to off.
I could for sure see that none of the thicker hoses were leaking. ONLY the thin hose on the very right side, on the right of carb 4, was leaking.
Is there anyway to drain out the fuel that's already in the carbs? i tried tapping on the 4th carb on the bottom as you guys have said, but it's kind of awkward because there's not a whole lot of room in there and i'm not sure if it worked.
Also, this might sound dumb but i can't get the cartridge out of the oil filter casing. I kept trying to loosen it with the nut, but the cartridge inside won't come out. Is there a special step you take to get it out, am i missing something?
OK, I will assume the leak is coming from the #4 carb. At the moment I can not tell you why it is leaking from the choke vent hose and not from the bowl overflow hose also. Perhaps someone else can add some information on that.
On the bottom of the bowl, facing to the outside there is a brass screw.
Turn the fuel off at the petcock and remove that screw this will drain the fuel in that carb. and allow the float to fall.
As it is draining out give the bowl a tap or two.
After draining reinstall the brass screw and turn the gas back on.
Turn the fuel pump back on and see if it holds fuel.
Here is a link for you to study. It is for rebuilding the carbs and will help you understand what's inside the carbs. I recommend you give it a few reads as if you were doing a rebuild.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4281.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4281.0)
I have a question and I don't know it has anything to do with your problem but I will ask you to please check it anyhow.
With the seat off, look down to the front side of your carbs (engine side). Look for the rod that pulls the choke pistons (work the choke).
There is a horizontal rod that connects all the carbs choke pistons. Look at the pistons.... Are they all in the same postion ? Pay particular to the #4 choke piston.
Here is a picture, the rod you see disconnected on the bench is the choke activation rod. On the carbs up at the top side you can see 4 black shinny boots with a brass stem coming out. Those are your choke pistons. They should be all in the same position. Choke off they are all in, choke on the are all out.
Is yours all in the same position ?
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/1651_28_11_13_6_41_57.jpeg)
Ref the oil filter:
The paper oil filter should just pull out. As you are new to the FJ..... Before you reinstall the oil filter housing take a bit of time and locate a wire that runs up between the filter housing and the engine. This is important, make sure when you reinstall the housing that the wire doesn't get pinched under the housing.
If you look at the wire closely you might even see where it has been pinched in the past....
If that wire (actually it 2 wires) get caught under the housing you will have a very large oil leak and if the wire gets shorted to ground your bike might not start... The wire comes from the side stand safety switch.
For all the members that know more than I (and that's most) please forgive any errors in terminology. Takes a page of information to explain what is done in a few minutes. :dash2: :good:
George
In my experience, leaking from the choke vent hose was caused by a leaking o ring on the float needle seat.
Only way to fix it is to pull the carbs.
It is leaking out of the choke vent tube because the needle seat is not sealing or the o-ring is bad. Based on the crash, I would say the needle is either stuck or debris is stuck in the needle & seat.
Drain the fuel bowls by the phillips head screw located on the bottom of the fuel bowls, you access the drain screws by removing the side panels and loosen the screws until they drain.
Once they are drained, bang on the top of the carbs with your fist to try and dislodge the debris.
Cycle the fuel pump a couple of times with the drain open to try and flush the debris. Bang on the top of the carbs while the fuel pump cycles. You should cycle the key several times while doing this to try and get the debris out.
Close the bowl drain screws and fill the fuel bowls by cycling the key when the pump stops clicking. Once the carbs fill up the fuel pump will stop clicking.
If the fuel continues to leak from the offending carb, you will have to remove them and take that bowl off for further investigation.
Just a note, the carb located on the far right side of the bike looking at it from the seated position is the #1 carb/cylinder.
FJmonkey, looks like he is about 50 miles from you, maybe you guys can get together and he can help you out.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: racerrad8 on December 07, 2013, 08:55:50 PM
Just a note, the carb located on the far right side of the bike looking at it from the seated position is the #1 carb/cylinder.
.
So no 1 cylinder is on the clutch side. Mmmm.... I always thought it was on the stator side. :scratch_one-s_head: We'll there you go, learning all the time.
Quote from: racerrad8 on December 07, 2013, 08:55:50 PM
It is leaking out of the choke vent tube because the needle seat is not sealing or the o-ring is bad. Based on the crash, I would say the needle is either stuck or debris is stuck in the needle & seat.
Drain the fuel bowls by the phillips head screw located on the bottom of the fuel bowls, you access the drain screws by removing the side panels and loosen the screws until they drain.
Once they are drained, bang on the top of the carbs with your fist to try and dislodge the debris.
Cycle the fuel pump a couple of times with the drain open to try and flush the debris. Bang on the top of the carbs while the fuel pump cycles. You should cycle the key several times while doing this to try and get the debris out.
Close the bowl drain screws and fill the fuel bowls by cycling the key when the pump stops clicking. Once the carbs fill up the fuel pump will stop clicking.
If the fuel continues to leak from the offending carb, you will have to remove them and take that bowl off for further investigation.
Just a note, the carb located on the far right side of the bike looking at it from the seated position is the #1 carb/cylinder.
FJmonkey, looks like he is about 50 miles from you, maybe you guys can get together and he can help you out.
Randy - RPM
Thanks Randy :good2: Wouldn't gas also drain from the larger overflow hoses ? Thanks for the correction on the carb / cylinder # :dash2: :blush:
George
Quote from: Bones on December 07, 2013, 09:43:20 PM
So no 1 cylinder is on the
clutch side. Mmmm.... I always thought it was on the stator side. :scratch_one-s_head: We'll there you go, learning all the time.
No, there I go again...mixing up the bike & car. In the race car, the right cylinder is in the front so we call it #1.
But, in the bike it is the left cylinder, the stator side.
Guess, what I worked on all day...
Sorry for the confusion.
Randy - RPM
You crack me up....I was freaking out there for a minute....whew.
itsdrock, PM sent.
Hey everyone!! Got my bike up and running with no fuel leaking. FJMonkey came over and helped me out a lot. He gave me valuable knowledge about carbs in general, and what i should do later on, should this happen again. I drained the float bowls and flushed it out. Seems like i got out whatever gunk that was stuck in there. Connected the fuel line checked for any leaks, none to be seen. Started up with no problems, and still not leaking after warming up. Battery's dead though, so i'm gonna charge it overnight. FJMonkey synced all my carbs for me, now she seems to be running like a champ. It's gonna need a new fuel filter in the near future, aside from that everything seems to be in place. :dance2:
Also, me and FJMonkey mounted the Renntec engine bars, and i must say, what a sight. Looks great, seems real solid; gonna provide a lot of protection and piece of mind. Shout out to RPM for the bars.
Thanks to everyone for all the valuable advice, and FJMonkey for coming all the way out here to help. I would've been lost without you guys. I feel great to be a part of this community.
Quote from: itsdrock on December 14, 2013, 07:01:10 PM
Hey everyone!! Got my bike up and running with no fuel leaking. FJMonkey came over and helped me out a lot. He gave me valuable knowledge about carbs in general, and what i should do later on, should this happen again. I drained the float bowls and flushed it out. Seems like i got out whatever gunk that was stuck in there. Connected the fuel line checked for any leaks, none to be seen. Started up with no problems, and still not leaking after warming up. Battery's dead though, so i'm gonna charge it overnight. FJMonkey synced all my carbs for me, now she seems to be running like a champ. It's gonna need a new fuel filter in the near future, aside from that everything seems to be in place. :dance2:
Also, me and FJMonkey mounted the Renntec engine bars, and i must say, what a sight. Looks great, seems real solid; gonna provide a lot of protection and piece of mind. Shout out to RPM for the bars.
Thanks to everyone for all the valuable advice, and FJMonkey for coming all the way out here to help. I would've been lost without you guys. I feel great to be a part of this community.
That's great news ! Marks the man :good2: :good2: :good2: :drinks:
George
He sure looks like one happy FJ owner. It was nice to meet a new and enthusiastic member and put things better on the FJ. Remember to get your throttle cable issue worked out, that is a safety issue. The rest of you bike looks solid and the bars from Randy are a nice addition. I need to ask Santa for a set.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2865/11376518474_5f011a85b5_o.jpg)
Quote from: movenon on December 14, 2013, 07:18:47 PM
Quote from: itsdrock on December 14, 2013, 07:01:10 PM
Thanks to everyone for all the valuable advice, and FJMonkey for coming all the way out here to help. I would've been lost without you guys. I feel great to be a part of this community.
That's great news ! Marks the man :good2: :good2: :good2: :drinks:
George
Mark, you're a good Egg! :praising: :drinks:
Glad to hear its all worked out. :-)
Good onya Mark/Monkey !!