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General Category => Yamaha FJ1100 / FJ1200 Running Problems => Topic started by: EricB on October 12, 2009, 11:36:13 PM

Title: 1986 Forks/Anti-Dive
Post by: EricB on October 12, 2009, 11:36:13 PM

I just want to make sure I am doing this right;

To lose the anti-dives on the forks, all I need to do is take them off and fashion some sort of block off plate...right?
Title: Re: 1986 Forks/Anti-Dive
Post by: FJmonkey on October 12, 2009, 11:48:53 PM
The block off plate will need a groove or two to allow fluid to pass between the two orifice. Otherwise your forks will be hydraulically locked and feel like they are solid bars of steel. Someone will likely post a picture and possibly a drawing with dimensions. I can have the plates made at my work if know what to fabricate. :bye2:
Title: Re: 1986 Forks/Anti-Dive
Post by: thuber3040 on October 12, 2009, 11:51:22 PM
I thought it was as simple as disconnect the brake line from it, re-attach to the non anti dive side and fit a bolt or plug to the anti dive side, have not read much on a block off plate or anything. I think if you just redo that line you wont need a plate.
or just go to newer lowers.

dont forget the PENSKE rear shock also
Title: Re: 1986 Forks/Anti-Dive
Post by: SlowOldGuy on October 13, 2009, 10:59:58 AM
You can do as Tim suggests and remove the brake lines.  You can use move the single line banjo bolt on the A/D unit over to replace the double banjo bolt on the caliper and use a bolt to seal the opening on the A/D unit.  You could also just remove the brake activated plunger unit on the top of the A/D after removing the line, but I think that might look ugly.

Another option is to remove the tapered spindle on the bottom of the damping rod inside the fork.  Obviously this requires taking the fork apart.  The tapered spindle also provides some hydraulic cushioning if the fork tubes bottoms out.  Removing the spindel would potentially make the bottoming harsher.

DavidR.
Title: Re: 1986 Forks/Anti-Dive
Post by: racerman_27410 on October 13, 2009, 07:24:31 PM
Quote from: SlowOldGuy on October 13, 2009, 10:59:58 AM
You can do as Tim suggests and remove the brake lines.  You can use move the single line banjo bolt on the A/D unit over to replace the double banjo bolt on the caliper and use a bolt to seal the opening on the A/D unit.  You could also just remove the brake activated plunger unit on the top of the A/D after removing the line, but I think that might look ugly.

Another option is to remove the tapered spindle on the bottom of the damping rod inside the fork.  Obviously this requires taking the fork apart.  The tapered spindle also provides some hydraulic cushioning if the fork tubes bottoms out.  Removing the spindel would potentially make the bottoming harsher.

DavidR.


when i disabled the anti dives on my stock forks i removed the tapered spindle from the bottom of the damper rod ass'y..... i wasnt worried about bottoming out since i was also upgrading the springs at the same time.

KOokaloo!