I have a Yamaha FJ1200 that is difficult to push around due to its size & weight. Both the previous owner & myself have dropped it onto its left side scratching up the engine case pretty badly. It's a real shame because the bike is a real cherry other than that. Here is a picture of the damage.
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p124/Northwet/BeforeA_zpsfec204ba.jpg)
When the bike fell on me, the side stand had collapsed due to a weak spring. I have since replaced the spring & relieved the side stand stop so the side stand would extend forward a bit more instead of almost straight up & down. But the scratches really bothered me.
Today I decided to try to do something about the scratches & pulled out my sandpaper collection & some masking tape. I carefully masked around the side case & part of the belly pan to protect those areas. I then started with some 80 grit to remove enough material to remove the deep gouges & the pits. I used a criss cross pattern & dry sanded across the gouges instead of with them. I then switched to 320 grit (it was the only choice that I had readily available) & began sanding the remaining scratches out. This took some time & I experimented with both wet sanding & dry sanding. I couldn't really tell if one technique worked better than the other. I eventually swapped to 400 grit & started seeing a "grain" to the aluminum. I sanded with the grain until the previous scratches were gone & then switched to 600 grit. More of the same sanding & then I switched to 1500 grit to finish up with. These just happened to be the grits of paper that I had on hand. Once I was done with the 1500 grit paper, I used some McGuires Fine Cut rubbing compound/cleaner & rubbed that into the surface then buffed it out. It took me about 1.5 to a couple of hours total, but I think the results are well worth the effort. Have a look for yourself.
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p124/Northwet/After1A_zpsf89cdef1.jpg)
Good luck
~JM~
I'd put a set of Renntecs on it now, if it were mine. :pardon:
Quote from: not a lib on October 25, 2013, 10:54:43 AM
I'd put a set of Renntecs on it now, if it were mine. :pardon:
What are Renntecs?
I'd really like to find a new belly pan that matches the color scheme. Then the bike would be totally cherry again.
Thanks
~JM~
Quote from: ~JM~ on October 25, 2013, 11:05:27 AM
What are Renntecs?
I'd really like to find a new belly pan that matches the color scheme. Then the bike would be totally cherry again.
Thanks
~JM~
http://www.rpmracingca.com/products.asp?cat=39&filter=renntec (http://www.rpmracingca.com/products.asp?cat=39&filter=renntec)
(http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu159/rktmanfj/Picture395.jpg)
Good luck with the belly pan, you're probably going to have to 'roll your own'.
I see now. Those look beefy. Thanks for the link.
I kinda figured a replacement belly pan is about unobtainable other than a fiberglass replica. Probably cost almost as much to match the paint scheme as the bike blue books for.
Thanks
~JM~
Quote from: ~JM~ on October 25, 2013, 11:44:01 AM
Probably cost almost as much to match the paint scheme as the bike blue books for.
Thanks
~JM~
Here is the link for paint codes. I know that some O'Rielly's auto Parts stores have a paint department that can mix paint to the paint codes. They can mix up a pint of pre-mixed, (paint/hardener). They also have spray packs that have the paint cup and aerosol in case you don't have a compressor and paint gun.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2902.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2902.0)
Fred
Quote from: ~JM~ on October 25, 2013, 11:05:27 AM
Quote from: not a lib on October 25, 2013, 10:54:43 AM
I'd put a set of Renntecs on it now, if it were mine. :pardon:
What are Renntecs?
I'd really like to find a new belly pan that matches the color scheme. Then the bike would be totally cherry again.
Thanks
~JM~
Quote from: not a lib on October 25, 2013, 11:15:59 AM
Quote from: ~JM~ on October 25, 2013, 11:05:27 AM
What are Renntecs?
I'd really like to find a new belly pan that matches the color scheme. Then the bike would be totally cherry again.
Thanks
~JM~
http://www.rpmracingca.com/products.asp?cat=39&filter=renntec (http://www.rpmracingca.com/products.asp?cat=39&filter=renntec)
(http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu159/rktmanfj/Picture395.jpg)
Good luck with the belly pan, you're probably going to have to 'roll your own'.
I have a renntec tail rack and expandable sack. They are high quality components and I am on the fence on installing the renntec crash bars. I have an issue with drilling so many holes in the frame. Just look at the recent pics on Pete's frame, yikes. Has anyone seen cracks around the holes drilled to install these bars?
Scott
Nice come back from the tip over. You are sooooo......close to polishing that cover it kills me haha!
I second the Renntecs, they are the best money spent on protection since I stopped buying condoms!
I'd repaint the lower scoop, if it were me, but that's what I do.
Leon
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v338/1tinindian/Motorcycles/100_7456.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/1tinindian/media/Motorcycles/100_7456.jpg.html)
FJScott, no holes are drilled to mount the case savers, (better term). They use existing bolts and threaded holes on the frame.
Leon
Quote from: FJscott on October 25, 2013, 12:29:21 PM
I have a renntec tail rack and expandable sack. They are high quality components and I am on the fence on installing the renntec crash bars. I have an issue with drilling so many holes in the frame. Just look at the recent pics on Pete's frame, yikes. Has anyone seen cracks around the holes drilled to install these bars?
Scott
There's no drilling required to install the Renntec frame (I ain't calling them
crash) bars on any FJ that I'm aware of. :unknown:
Definitely not on the 3rd gen.
EDIT: Leon, GMTA :biggrin:
No drilling holes to install the renntec cras.....case savers? That good to know. I'm in.
Scott
"Engine guards" , "roo guards" for those in OZ or deluxe light mount bars. :good2: On the list before spring....
George
Nice job, but why stop there? Take a look at Pats or Leon's bike to see where you can take the FJ with
Some polish and elbo grease
Quote from: FJscott on October 25, 2013, 03:00:02 PMNice job, but why stop there? Take a look at Pats or Leon's bike to see where you can take the FJ with Some polish and elbo grease
Where do I see these bikes? What more does it take to finish the job? Some finer grit paper, or do I need to start using some polishing compounds. I do not have a buffer & I'm limited to working it by hand.
Thanks
~JM~
PS. Wish I could do the same on the belly pan.
Quote from: ~JM~ on October 25, 2013, 03:53:26 PM
Quote from: FJscott on October 25, 2013, 03:00:02 PMNice job, but why stop there? Take a look at Pats or Leon's bike to see where you can take the FJ with Some polish and elbo grease
Where do I see these bikes?
Pat's '84:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/49_13_12_09_7_44_36.jpeg)
Leon's '91:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/3/646_14_09_12_11_44_56.jpeg)
Get a spray bottle with some water and wet sand (keeps the paper clean) with some 2000 grit, then 2 applications of Simichrome and it will look like a mirror. Easy peesey.
Isn't working with aluminum fun? Don't worry about becoming addicted...
.....just keep telling yourself that you can stop at any time.
(Although those fork lowers sure look good polished, right Leon?)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/1651_24_10_13_6_50_08.jpeg) might as well clean it while I am at it.... Still haven't done the swing arm...... Guess I will redo the head pipes. Someday I will try to get them ceramic coated.
George
Right on Pat, let that inner beauty come out and shine, brother!
Simichrome????Did someone say "SIMICHROME"? That is the drug of choice for the polishers addiction ! :wacko2: :wacko1:
George, AAWESOME job on those forks, buddy!
Shine On!
Leon
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/1651_25_10_13_6_16_28.jpeg)
More bling..... :good2:
Quote from: 1tinindian on October 25, 2013, 07:14:05 PM
Right on Pat, let that inner beauty come out and shine, brother!
Simichrome????Did someone say "SIMICHROME"? That is the drug of choice for the polishers addiction ! :wacko2: :wacko1:
George, AAWESOME job on those forks, buddy!
Shine On!
Leon
Thanks Leon but you and Pat set the standard :good2: The wife wants to know why the drier won't work.... :biggrin:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/1651_19_10_13_10_39_45.jpeg)
George
Ooooooh..George has it baaaad...
Looking good! :good:
Quote from: Pat Conlon on October 25, 2013, 11:23:05 PM
Ooooooh..George has it baaaad...
Looking good! :good:
Agreed.
He makes me proud! He's one of us, Pat!
Quote from: Pat Conlon on October 25, 2013, 11:23:05 PM
Ooooooh..George has it baaaad...
Looking good! :good:
Thanks, mufflers next as soon as I get them repacked.... Front end should be back together tomorrow. Got some new Uni Pods from Randy. They look good can't wait to get them mounted and the box out of way. I guess winter is good for something.....
Leon I usually have a picture of your or Pats bike on my desktop just to keep me going. :biggrin: Hats off to you guys :hi: :hi:
George
Quote from: movenon on October 25, 2013, 07:04:22 PM
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/1651_24_10_13_6_50_08.jpeg) might as well clean it while I am at it.... Still haven't done the swing arm...... Guess I will redo the head pipes. Someday I will try to get them ceramic coated.
George
Dayaaaam! Those are some shiny bits! I keep seeing these polished forks and wonder if I should get a polishing wheel...There may be NO end to it though! I ceramic coated my down pipes during the rebuild...mostly to bottle in the heat and keep it away from the front of the engine. I didn't even consider that they might be stainless...may have gone the polishing route on them!
Cap'n Ron. . .
The virus is spreading.....
BWHAAAAHAAAHAAA .....
Oh gawd... You guys need help. Sooo much help. It's probably a lost cause. :flag_of_truce:
At least, (like my wife says), we know where you are. Simchrome doesn't give off very strong fumes, does it? :empathy3:
My '92s next owner, (me), was either gonna save it or trash it. Between Randy and myself, it's on the road back to recovery. But it will NEVER look like your guys'. Wow! My hats off to you.
:hi:
(If I ever make a rally, I'll just park behind the biggest tree available, ok?)
Thanks for the tips guys. Those are some great looking bikes & parts! Looks like there are a few hours in those fork legs. That polishing wheel set-up is simply ingenious.
I have always liked working with aluminum & stainless steel. Aluminum is so easy to work & a very forgiving material. Plus both aluminum & stainless look good at almost any level of finish, from raw, to brushed, to polished & even engine turned or jeweled.
~JM~
Quote from: airheadPete on October 26, 2013, 03:25:55 AM
Oh gawd... You guys need help. Sooo much help. It's probably a lost cause. :flag_of_truce:
At least, (like my wife says), we know where you are. Simchrome doesn't give off very strong fumes, does it? :empathy3:
My '92s next owner, (me), was either gonna save it or trash it. Between Randy and myself, it's on the road back to recovery. But it will NEVER look like your guys'. Wow! My hats off to you.
:hi:
(If I ever make a rally, I'll just park behind the biggest tree available, ok?)
Don't worry about what your bike looks like for a rally, just show up and enjoy the group. "it's the people not the bike". :good2: If Pat and Leon ever park there bikes next to each other on a sunny day you could go temporally blind.... Post some pictures of your 92 and tell us how you are doing. More than a few of us can relate to being "on the road to recovery" :wacko3:
The forks are actually easy to strip and polish, that's the good news. The bad is your need to keep them polished (never leave home without Simichorme).... Better for bikes stored inside and not used daily in areas where they put corrosive crap on the roads.
As a note for Leon, I see Simichrome is imported by a company in Iowa.... Now I know :rofl:
George
Dammit, that's it! Now I have to go buy one of hose polishing/buffing machiney things :flag_of_truce:
Quote from: movenon on October 26, 2013, 10:46:08 AM
If Pat and Leon ever park there bikes next to each other on a sunny day you could go temporally blind....
If that actually happened they would have a combined critical mass to trigger an explosive event that would remove the polish off bikes world wide..... :shok:
Quote from: movenon on October 26, 2013, 10:46:08 AM
The bad is your need to keep them polished...
You can also go the anodized/powder coated treatment. I wipe Wizard down once every couple of weeks and she stays oh so pretty... shown here with silver wheels and winter tires (Dunlop RoadSmarts) back on. Black wheels getting Q3/Q2 installed for next spring...
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2830/10515440975_1c356229a2_m.jpg)
Sorry for little pic... Flickr kicking my ass just now and I'm heading out for a ride.
Frank
Quote from: Flynt on October 27, 2013, 11:09:24 AM
Quote from: movenon on October 26, 2013, 10:46:08 AM
The bad is your need to keep them polished...
You can also go the anodized/powder coated treatment. I wipe Wizard down once every couple of weeks and she stays oh so pretty... shown here with silver wheels and winter tires (Dunlop RoadSmarts) back on. Black wheels getting Q3/Q2 installed for next spring...
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2830/10515440975_1c356229a2_m.jpg)
Sorry for little pic... Flickr kicking my ass just now and I'm heading out for a ride.
Frank
TNX Frank, but explain this "winter" deal to me...... Whats winter California, 75 degrees and mostly sunshine.... ? :biggrin: :biggrin:
George
It drops to 50 and the ski jackets come out, damn funny. These Californians have no concept of cold. There is nothing wrong with shoveling some snow to get to the BBQ and grilling up some steaks. Not that it snows at my house, but a grilled steak has no seasons. :nyam2:
I am just jealous... we normally spend the winters in Yuma and I to have to laugh, the locals wear a heavy coats during the winter, the visitors from the North West usually wear a long sleeve shirt and the Canadians are in shorts....
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/5/1651_19_08_13_3_40_55.jpeg)
Due to family events we will probably stay put again this winter. Not looking forward to grey sky's, cold, black ice, snow, mud, etc...
Thinking about building or buying a small trailer to tow behind the fifth wheel for the FJ. I can legally double tow in Idaho, Nevada and into AZ. Just need to stay out of Calif. with that configuration. When in Yuma I am only 2.5 hours out of San Diego.
George
Quote from: Flynt on October 27, 2013, 11:09:24 AM
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2830/10515440975_1c356229a2_m.jpg)
Sorry for little pic... Flickr kicking my ass just now and I'm heading out for a ride.
Frank
Yep, that's why I like Photobucket. :yes:
Quote from: movenon on October 27, 2013, 01:10:02 PM
Whats winter California...
Rain. I get caught a few times a year and even ride out into it on occasion. The RoadSmarts are very nice in the wet... not so much for the Q2s. I get caught in the wet with them occasionally as well and they are nervous in every way.
I can't really complain about NorCal winters. With good rain gear and a heated vest, you can easily ride year round. Nothing like a winter in Idaho. I was in Idaho Falls for nuclear submarine prototype training for the Navy... right through the winter. Never so fucking cold as standing at a bus stop with my piss cutter on and a big winter coat. I thought a couple of times my ears would snap off if touched.
Side note... I pumped pressure up to max sidewall front and rear on the RoadSmarts. I ran these at 34/36, now they are 42/42 (all psig). They feel much more planted and comfortable at this pressure. The Q2s also feel much more solid at 41/42. Even the RD with 90/18 front and 110/18 rear feels more controlled with max pressures... 41/42 in that case too. I'm a believer in sidewall pressure spec now. :good:
Frank
Quote from: Flynt on October 27, 2013, 07:26:06 PM
Quote from: movenon on October 27, 2013, 01:10:02 PM
Whats winter California...
Rain. I get caught a few times a year and even ride out into it on occasion. The RoadSmarts are very nice in the wet... not so much for the Q2s. I get caught in the wet with them occasionally as well and they are nervous in every way.
I can't really complain about NorCal winters. With good rain gear and a heated vest, you can easily ride year round. Nothing like a winter in Idaho. I was in Idaho Falls for nuclear submarine prototype training for the Navy... right through the winter. Never so fucking cold as standing at a bus stop with my piss cutter on and a big winter coat. I thought a couple of times my ears would snap off if touched.
Side note... I pumped pressure up to max sidewall front and rear on the RoadSmarts. I ran these at 34/36, now they are 42/42 (all psig). They feel much more planted and comfortable at this pressure. The Q2s also feel much more solid at 41/42. Even the RD with 90/18 front and 110/18 rear feels more controlled with max pressures... 41/42 in that case too. I'm a believer in sidewall pressure spec now. :good:
Frank
Eastern Idaho is a crap hole during the winter for sure. Boise / Meridian not as bad but still winter..... Out of 30 years in the military I spent about 9 in the Navy. Last navy duty was at NAS Pt Mugu. Enjoyed the weather there when I had time to enjoy it.
Next season I will experiment with raising the tire pressure. Like most I run mine at around 34/36. I was in the early stages of shaking mine down when I had my little get off so that came to a halt. I will pick it up next spring. Gives me time to make a few changes on items that I know needed to be corrected. When I was at the WCR the bike was stuffed together just for the week end.
Enjoy the sunshine down there. 30 degree's tonight, not bad for here this time of year. Mid 20's later during the week.
George
Quote from: FJmonkey on October 26, 2013, 10:34:40 PM
Quote from: movenon on October 26, 2013, 10:46:08 AM
If Pat and Leon ever park there bikes next to each other on a sunny day you could go temporally blind....
If that actually happened they would have a combined critical mass to trigger an explosive event that would remove the polish off bikes world wide..... :shok:
Oh, but it HAS happened!
I like to call them, the bookends of the FJ production designs.
Leon
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v338/1tinindian/Motorcycles/2012-06-09092722_zps8acefb97.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/1tinindian/media/Motorcycles/2012-06-09092722_zps8acefb97.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v338/1tinindian/Motorcycles/2012-06-09092904_zpsbd5a3426.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/1tinindian/media/Motorcycles/2012-06-09092904_zpsbd5a3426.jpg.html)
We were all lucky that when they DID come together, it was under the shade of the Gunnison campground.
Quote from: 1tinindian on October 27, 2013, 09:40:06 PM
Shit!! :dash2: :dash2: :dash2: I was hoping there was no evidence.... Good on you to call me out, Good pics as well. Polish on you shiny gods of reflective metal....
Ok, I see, but I do not understand. (Wasn't there, etc...)
"FJ1400"??? Oldest is fastest? :unknown:
I almost didn't notice that "4" snuck in there like that. Looks OEM! I'm hoping there is a "Big Boring" story to go along with that emblem.
How about a quick spec sheet?
Thanks
~JM~
Good eye, I thought I could sneak in that 4 and no one would notice. Randy @ RPM builds a very nice 1350.
It's a street build, set up for low/mid range torque with large valves, undercut tranny, but still running the stock cams and the CV36's.....I figure about 90 ft.lbs of torque. Haven't been to a dyno yet.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on October 31, 2013, 10:22:22 AMGood eye, I thought I could sneak in that 4 and no one would notice. Randy @ RPM builds a very nice 1350.
It's a street build, set up for low/mid range torque with large valves, undercut tranny, but still running the stock cams and the CV36's.....I figure about 90 ft.lbs of torque. Haven't been to a dyno yet.
Certainly the ass-dyno must have some feedback. Spill the beans... What's it like?
~JM~
Bike is looking great and with 1350 cc should run great as well.
Let me put it this way...see that Corbin seat?
I really need it...to keep my ass from sliding back on the seat as the bike wants to accelerate out from under me.
I have to remember to fight the inertia and keep my upper body bent forward with my weight over the tank.
She pulls *hard* to about 8.5k when the rejetted CV36's start to run out of air, still a very exciting ride.
Torque is where it's at for street riding.
Got to love the old girl :good:
Quote from: Pat Conlon on October 31, 2013, 10:52:07 AMLet me put it this way...see that Corbin seat?
I really need it...to keep my ass from sliding back on the seat as the bike wants to accelerate out from under me.
I have to remember to fight the inertia and keep my upper body bent forward with my weight over the tank.
She pulls *hard* to about 8.5k when the rejetted CV36's start to run out of air, still a very exciting ride.
Torque is where it's at for street riding.
Indeed! I've preached Torque over Horsepower for years. After all Torque is a direct measurement. HP is a computation.
Do you mind if I ask what kind of expense & downtime one should prepare for if you were to have this type of engine built? Is 1350cc the maximum displacement available, or is that the recommended displacement to retain reliability?
Thank you
~JM~
It's kinda hard to estimate cost, like asking, "How much does a bag of groceries cost?" It depends on what's inside.
Timing depends on the schedule of the engine builder and his sub contractors. Send Randy a e-mail for some specifics.
I have been told that the 82mm pistons are the largest you can fit in a sleeved XJR cylinder block.
The 82mm Hank Scott Pro pistons with the shorter skirt and lighter pin are about the same weight as the oem piston.
Amazing the advances made over the last 25 years in piston design. Here's a visual comparison:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/1/49_13_02_11_11_40_19.jpeg)
Other manufacturers have made larger displacement cylinder blocks for the FJ, but they are specific for drag racing and do not have the cooling fins needed for heat dissipation on a street bike, like the XJR cylinders have.
Cheers. Pat
HOLY S*%#t! THAT'S the replacement piston size!?!?! :bomb: :wacko3:
Ahem, so, how long do your tires last? (as they die a screaming, smokey death.) :lol: :lol: :lol:
:hi:
P.S., HP is for kids. Torque is for discerning adults. :drinks:
No matter what you do HP = torque @ 5252RPM. (actually the formula is hp= to *rpm/5252) but effectively this means that they are inextricably equal @ 5252 RPM. All this talk of torque being 'better' than HP smacks of the kind of silly conversation you may read on a Harley forum.
Dan
Quote from: Dan Filetti on November 01, 2013, 07:27:53 AMNo matter what you do HP = torque @ 5252RPM. (actually the formula is hp= to *rpm/5252) but effectively this means that they are inextricably equal @ 5252 RPM. All this talk of torque being 'better' than HP smacks of the kind of silly conversation you may read on a Harley forum.
Dan
For a bit of clarity... What I meant was, for an engine being built for street usage, the general rule is that it's better to build for torque production, than it is to build for horsepower potential. Large amounts of torque that starts low in in the RPM scale is more usuable & more fun to the seat of the pants driving experience, than a high winding, high horsepower engine. Plus parts longevity & reliability is enhanced with the low RPM, high torque engine. Just remember that I said as a general rule.
~JM~
All I know is that my "ass dyno" tells me the FJ is just about right. Enough TQ to pull through without a lot of shifting If I embarrassingly get caught in a higher gear and plenty of RPM for HP.
George