(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSA%20SA58%20PARA%20Elite/DSC04648.jpg~original)
This is the last time we'll see this bike look like she does here. I got started taking it apart today. That foolish airbox was broken anyway. The nut boss on top was broken clean off and someone put electrical tape to seal it.
I got some ideas for the color. Dark metal flake gray or carbon fiber wrap. Frame color of yamaha racing yellow. I'll polish all the aluminum.
I'm going to rebuild the carbs and go over everything else. I really want a 4 into one exaust system but there tough to find or to much money for what I want. I don't like the look of the black headers and the aluminum cans. Ebay has that stuff reasonably priced but I want the crome megaphone type. Maybe as time goes on I'll find something.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSA%20SA58%20PARA%20Elite/DSC04649.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSA%20SA58%20PARA%20Elite/DSC04650.jpg~original)
I'll post pics as I go ahead with my project
I am sure there will be a few members that may be interested in the F1R mufflers. Here is a photo of the New RPM 4-2-1 exhaust with the Carbon Fiber muffler.
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc517/racerrad8/Mike_zps6ca470dc.jpg~original) (http://s1215.photobucket.com/user/racerrad8/media/Mike_zps6ca470dc.jpg.html).
This may give you another idea on how to go with the paint job. I just picked up an 87' about a month ago. It was already painted Satin Black. I thought all black was a bit much. I found a complete 89' graphics set and put the graphics on.
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o145/aviationfred/FJforsale001_zps62c1beb7.jpg~original) (http://s119.photobucket.com/user/aviationfred/media/FJforsale001_zps62c1beb7.jpg.html)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o145/aviationfred/d7d071f6-0808-44dd-be49-4867126efa97_zps255f06d9.jpg~original) (http://s119.photobucket.com/user/aviationfred/media/d7d071f6-0808-44dd-be49-4867126efa97_zps255f06d9.jpg.html)
Quote from: Joe Sull on October 15, 2013, 06:05:48 PM
I don't like the look of the black headers and the aluminum cans. Ebay has that stuff reasonably priced but I want the crome megaphone type. Maybe as time goes on I'll find something.
I'll post pics as I go ahead with my project
Please please please please :flag_of_truce: :flag_of_truce: :flag_of_truce: :flag_of_truce: :flag_of_truce: advice me if you want to sell the cans
Quote from: Joe Sull on October 15, 2013, 06:05:48 PM
.....I want the crome megaphone type.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8066/8153616130_971e608573_c.jpg)
??
AvationFred, Your bike looks very good with the decals, in my opinion but as you said all black is to much. If there was a lot of black crome it might be more tastefull. The decals make a Big difference. The satin black is kind of charcoal gray. I would probably do better to do a 2 tone and break up the solid color. Metal flake would help too. I can't find the 421 headers you mentioned on the RPM. I looked under a couple of catagories including "exaust".
Ribbert, Thats some nice crome right there buddy. Reminds me of a doctored up picture of a woman I saw once.
I'm working on removing the fairing and not doing to good. I got the head cooling cowls out bit can't see what bolts are holding it. I've tried searching and nothing yet. I need a manual.
The RPM exhaust is not available yet. The photo is a test article that has over 7000 miles on it. The pipe should be released for sale very soon.
The fairing is like a jigsaw puzzle. Remove the fuel tank, the inner black fairing pieces that are between the tank and the main fairing, remove the instrument shroud and you should be able to get to the main fairing attachment bolts.
Fred
As Fred already mentioned the exhaust is in the final stage and the final design bike was returned today so the system should be ready in a few weeks.
Also, I will be offering a megaphone style muffler as well.
Look for a post in the next few weeks.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: Joe Sull on October 16, 2013, 03:57:06 PM
I'm working on removing the fairing and not doing to good. I got the head cooling cowls out bit can't see what bolts are holding it. I've tried searching and nothing yet. I need a manual.
The procedure in the manual is unnecessarily difficult and lengthy. It describes removing the fairing from the subframe. It also puts the now brittle plastic mounting tabs on the fairing at risk.
Try removing these bolts and taking the whole assembly off. Much cleaner and quicker. Instruments, headlight, screen all come off together. !5 min job.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8233/8508679001_997a147890_c.jpg)
Noel
Quote from: Joe Sull on October 16, 2013, 03:57:06 PM
I'm working on removing the fairing and not doing to good. I got the head cooling cowls out bit can't see what bolts are holding it. I've tried searching and nothing yet. I need a manual.
Joe, I'm going by memory here hopefully others will make corrections, but this will get you started
*You got the side scoops off. good.
*Remove the seat (no kidding)
*Remove the 2 plastic side panels under the seat - one on each side - careful the bottoms need to be pulled UP then out-
*Remove the gas tank (still not kidding)
* Remove the mirrors
*Remove the wind shield (this will expose two major bolts that are holding the fairing in place)
*Remove the choke knob and little cover around the choke
*Remove all the screws that hold the inner fairings in place (this is a little fuzzy for me...someone confirm this? )
*Then, there are two bolts, one on each side of the headlight that hold the fairing in place. Using a (3/8") ratchet and a 8"? extension and I think a 10mm ? socket, reach in on each side from where your gas tank was, to the side of the headlight assembly and you should find those bolts. You can put your head down where your tank was and see the bolts,( a flashlight helps here) or you can reach in and feel the bolts, but not both at the same time. Anyway, remove those bolts.
*Remove the two bolts, one on each side, that were exposed when you removed the side scoops.
Uuhhh...I think you'll have fairing off. If not your damn close anyway.
I've heard it mentioned that the headlight will fall out if not supported when removing the fairing. this has never been the case for me. I've got an '89.
the inner fairing pieces come off before the fairing comes off, but if memory serves, I think I leave the left one in because it's easier..
Hope this helps.
Mark M
I just saw ribbert's post. His way sounds easier! Either way, it will give you a great chance to check out the integrity of your fairing from the inside. It's not uncommon for them to have a few cracks that need repair. You'll be glad you did next spring! You've got a good project started. Carry on!
Thanks Fred, I'll look at it that way tomorrow. I was looking at the yamaha racing colors for my frame. The Yellow one or the blue one. Yellow faster! Blue looks like laser blue. The yellow is deeper than I was imagining. I guess I had suzuki rm yellow in my head but the deeper yamaha yellow will look better.
Thanks Randy, I'll be watching for it to come out. I've read that the 4/1 that will fit the FJ restrict access to the oil drain plug. This should be interesting.
AHA I just saw the two last post as I was typing. Thank you guys. I got it. I'll be able to get her off tomorrow. :dash1:
The RPM exhaust will allow for access to the drain plug without removal of the exhaust. :good2:
Fred
Quote from: markmartin on October 16, 2013, 05:50:13 PM
Quote from: Joe Sull on October 16, 2013, 03:57:06 PM
I'm working on removing the fairing and not doing to good. I got the head cooling cowls out bit can't see what bolts are holding it. I've tried searching and nothing yet. I need a manual.
Joe, I'm going by memory here hopefully others will make corrections, but this will get you started
*You got the side scoops off. good.
*Remove the seat (no kidding)
*Remove the 2 plastic side panels under the seat - one on each side - careful the bottoms need to be pulled UP then out-
*Remove the gas tank (still not kidding)
* Remove the mirrors
*Remove the wind shield (this will expose two major bolts that are holding the fairing in place)
*Remove the choke knob and little cover around the choke
*Remove all the screws that hold the inner fairings in place (this is a little fuzzy for me...someone confirm this? )
*Then, there are two bolts, one on each side of the headlight that hold the fairing in place. Using a (3/8") ratchet and a 8"? extension and I think a 10mm ? socket, reach in on each side from where your gas tank was, to the side of the headlight assembly and you should find those bolts. You can put your head down where your tank was and see the bolts,( a flashlight helps here) or you can reach in and feel the bolts, but not both at the same time. Anyway, remove those bolts.
*Remove the two bolts, one on each side, that were exposed when you removed the side scoops.
Uuhhh...I think you'll have fairing off. If not your damn close anyway.
I've heard it mentioned that the headlight will fall out if not supported when removing the fairing. this has never been the case for me. I've got an '89.
the inner fairing pieces come off before the fairing comes off, but if memory serves, I think I leave the left one in because it's easier..
Hope this helps.
Mark M
That's the way :good2: :good2:. Easy after you do it once.
The 4 main bolts are 12mm
Also unhook the speedometer cable down at the front wheel.
And as Mark noted make sure you undo the JIS / Philips head screws under the windscreen.
George
Joe, with all due respect to the others that have commented on fairing removal, disregard everything they have said. They are talking about removing a fairing from later model bikes, not an '84 or '85 which are totally different.
You have already removed the air scoops, so there are 2 bolts directly under the headlight, there are 2 more under the bottom fairing protectors (1 each side). The protector needs to be removed first. These are held on by 4 small plastic tabs, so you have to carefully prize them off with a flat blade screwdriver or similar tool. There are 2 remaining screws on the inside panels, 1 above the fuse panel and 1 directly opposite, on the righthand side. Disconnect the speedo cable from the front wheel or slide fairing forward a small amount and undo at the speedo end. Wiring plugs for headlight and instrument panel should also be unplugged at this point. Pull fairing forward until it clears everything and it's done.
This all sound like a lot of work but it can be done in about 10 minutes (with a bit of practice) Hope this helps. As you may have guessed, my fairing has been removed many times. :biggrin: Regards, Pete.
Thanks to everyone for your help. I got the fairing off fine. I have 7 months part time to accomplish my project. As I sit looking at the bare bike I'm wonder if getting the frame painted is to much. How many hours do you thing it would take to strip the frame, paint it and reassemble? I'm sure some of you have done it before.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSA%20SA58%20PARA%20Elite/DSC04651.jpg~original)
I Need your opinion on this discoloration of the #1 head area. I noticed it a couple of days after I got the bike.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSA%20SA58%20PARA%20Elite/DSC04652.jpg~original)
This pinkish color is worrying me a little. It comes off easily with a wire brush. I think it might be something that was sprayed on like a lube that baked.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04655.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04657.jpg~original)
Heres going around to the front
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04656.jpg~original)
Heres the back
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04658.jpg~original)
And the top
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04659.jpg~original)
I emptied the gas tank so I could turn it over and look at the petcock. The luel line elbow fell off at a good time and I avoided disaster. Was this pressed/ epoxyed in? Wierd!
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/f2a25caa-c660-40d7-818e-47d257bf4f4b.jpg~original)
Got some more frame off and was working on the engine mounts when I was stopped with this allen screw shaft thing. How does it work? I put some force on it ccw and it does'nt budge. I tried cw just because, and I get nothing.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04661.jpg~original)
That is common maladay of the fj. There is a post on the site somewhere on how to fix this. You have to safety wire spigot to the valve. Randy also sells new petcocks that are already wired and ready to go. Big R
Please take a look at this post :). http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=3251.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=3251.0) and this one http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=3265.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=3265.0)
George
Thanks for the replies. I mite do the repair a little different by drill and tap #4 thru one wall and some pematex or locktite in the threads. I saw that safety thread title and ment to bookmark it but did'nt. I
tried searching for it with on results. I can guess that the elbow is'nt threaded because the vacum port would interfere. They should have both been threaded.
About the rear engine mount that I pictured above? Anybody?
Try an impact driver/rattle gun on it. Bet it has not moved in 20 years. I doubt it has LH threads, it is just stuck.
Quote from: Joe Sull on October 19, 2013, 10:56:33 AM
Got some more frame off and was working on the engine mounts when I was stopped with this allen screw shaft thing. How does it work? I put some force on it ccw and it does'nt budge. I tried cw just because, and I get nothing.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04661.jpg~original)
The job at hand aside, you should be using the allen key the other way round. As shown, much of the force you apply is lost in the springiness of the shaft. You minimise this by using the short end.
Those sort of keys are not much use on tight bolts anyway, they are difficult to press into the head while turning and even more difficult to keep straight when applying force.
A set of these, they are not expensive, are a great asset in the garage. They are 1/2" drive and can be used with all your socket accessories (including long bar) and even power tools with virtually no loss of force due to twisting. They can also be belted in with a hammer to ensure a good seat before turning.
(http://i.pgcdn.com/pi/76/85/97/768597867_260.jpg)
Allen heads often fill with crud and one of the problems people have is tying to loosen one with the tool only half way in. This makes them more inclined to strip and difficult to keep straight. Make sure the head is clean so the tool can seat full depth.
Noel
Joe,
I can't tell, is that wrench an 8 or 10mm?
If it is the 8mm that is the head of the bolt, if it is the 10mm it is the nut.
You need to be using the 10mm and turning CCW to remove the nut. The bolt could be corroded into the hole and will not let let you turn it.
But, you will need to be able to apply more torque to get it loose that the short side of that wrench like Noel mentioned.
Randy - RPM
I had my wife get me a set of the allen for the 3/8" drive at wally world. They did'nt have the 1/2" drive. I tried it and it's too short to reach in. I need about 3" length. It's the 10 mm side showing. I looked in the other side with a flashlight and saw a feature that looked round but it could have been 8 mm and I did'nt see the hex.
I've got to travel this week coming up for work and I won't be able to work on the bike till next saturday. When I bet home I'll cut off a 3" piece of that allen and use a 10mm socket over that. I spray penitrating oil on it and will sitting for a week. I'm taking my computer with me so I can keep in touch.
For the sockets I have I just use an extension with a ratchet and that allows the socket to fit within the frame.
This is what I used earlier today to bolt Pat's engine into the frame.
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc517/racerrad8/005_zps9dd11335.jpg~original) (http://s1215.photobucket.com/user/racerrad8/media/005_zps9dd11335.jpg.html)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc517/racerrad8/006_zps7249db6b.jpg~original) (http://s1215.photobucket.com/user/racerrad8/media/006_zps7249db6b.jpg.html)
Randy - RPM
There are long shank hex bits.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Snap-on-Tools-3-8-Dr-6Pc-Extra-Long-Metric-Hex-Ball-Driver-Socket-Set-206EFABLM-/310772175991?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item485b771477&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Snap-on-Tools-3-8-Dr-6Pc-Extra-Long-Metric-Hex-Ball-Driver-Socket-Set-206EFABLM-/310772175991?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item485b771477&vxp=mtr)
Fred
Quote from: ribbert on October 19, 2013, 06:40:07 PM
A set of these, they are not expensive, are a great asset in the garage. They are 1/2" drive and can be used with all your socket accessories (including long bar) and even power tools with virtually no loss of force due to twisting. They can also be belted in with a hammer to ensure a good seat before turning.
(http://i.pgcdn.com/pi/76/85/97/768597867_260.jpg)
Noel
I have, on occasion made one of these by cutting off the long end of an allen key and inserting it into the appropriate size 6-point socket. To Noel's point, I make it only the length needed to seat properly (no longer) to minimize the twisting loss.
Cap'n Ron. . .
Quote from: Capn Ron on October 21, 2013, 12:55:16 AM
Quote from: ribbert on October 19, 2013, 06:40:07 PM
A set of these, they are not expensive, are a great asset in the garage. They are 1/2" drive and can be used with all your socket accessories (including long bar) and even power tools with virtually no loss of force due to twisting. They can also be belted in with a hammer to ensure a good seat before turning.
(http://i.pgcdn.com/pi/76/85/97/768597867_260.jpg)
Noel
I have, on occasion made one of these by cutting off the long end of an allen key and inserting it into the appropriate size 6-point socket. To Noel's point, I make it only the length needed to seat properly (no longer) to minimize the twisting loss.
Cap'n Ron. . .
Some years back I was the victim of a tool theft. After a protracted and unsuccessful insurance claim ( who woulda' thought!) on a technicality, I was forced to replace a lot of my quality tools with cheap stuff to tide me over.
It has never ceased to amaze me the good service most of those have provided, even with regular use.
For example, I bought a box of those 1/2" drive allen keys for under $20. They have seen a lot of use, even on air tools, and remain as good as the day I bought them.
It also allows you to justify more tools that won't necessarily see a lot of use if you haven't paid much for them.
You need to know what you can get away with buying cheap, but crap tools are way better than they used to be, but if it doesn't do the job it's straight in the bin, but there haven't been many of those.
Noel
Hi Randy,
When working on Pat's bike, are welding goggles required, or will sunglasses work ok?
Thx,
Jeff
Quote from: jscgdunn on October 21, 2013, 01:02:02 PM
Hi Randy,
When working on Pat's bike, are welding goggles required, or will sunglasses work ok?
Thx,
Jeff
Well, by looking at the picture below, you can see that I do have to keep the doors closed and I had to have the bottom windows tinted to block the sun so the reflection would not burn out my retinas.
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc517/racerrad8/018_zps505aebd4.jpg~original) (http://s1215.photobucket.com/user/racerrad8/media/018_zps505aebd4.jpg.html)
So far, that has worked well for me.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: racerrad8 on October 20, 2013, 06:22:16 PM
This is what I used earlier today to bolt Pat's engine into the frame.
Why, on god's green earth, was Pat's engine out of the bike?
Dan
I know why the engine is out of Mr. Conlon's motorcycle, but that is a long story for another day.
What I can't believe is how goofy looking Randy is; and it looks as if there is a misshapen bald head under that hat...!
At least he is using the correct tool for the job at hand...
Keep smiling,
Midget.
Hey Dan, I was afraid someone would ask....Short answer: operator error.
I cooked a couple of exhaust valves from failing to check my valve clearances after the first 500 miles like Randy advised me. I figured a trip to the WCR and back couldn't hurt.. :dash2:
It turned out to be a good thing because when Randy opened up the lower end for a look see, he found some damage (galling) to the crank shaft thrust surface that happened when I had my low side accident 2 years ago.
This happened when I went down on the right side, I went one way and the bike went another, and ended up about 30 feet away. I broke 4 ribs on my right side and I could not move to get over to the bike to shut it off.
The bike idled on her right side for about 3-4 long minutes before my fellow rider, Gazza could get to her to shut her off.
The damage was done. FJ's don't like laying on their side with the engine running.
This turned out to be a very expensive and painful WCR, but survivable. Thank God for Randy. He worked so hard putting together the first 1350 engine only to have to do it again. I don't know what I would do without him.
Pat
Quote from: Dan Filetti on October 21, 2013, 03:58:04 PM
Why, on god's green earth, was Pat's engine out of the bike?
Dan
Sorry Dan,
I missed this, because down there in that dry, dusty desert that he lives in ruined the engine case paint. It was in very bad shape and needed to be resprayed, so I pulled it so I could paint it.
Randy - RPM (popcorn)
Ahem, yea, what he said....
Quote from: racerrad8 on October 21, 2013, 02:01:47 PM
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc517/racerrad8/018_zps505aebd4.jpg~original) (http://s1215.photobucket.com/user/racerrad8/media/018_zps505aebd4.jpg.html)
I thought I posted this comment yesterday, but it seems not to have taken...
You know how you get a picture in your head of what someone looks like before you meet them, then you meet them (or, as in this case, see a picture of them) and they are either somewhat close to your mental picture, or way the hell off? Well, for me, this is the latter. For whatever reason I pictured Randy as younger-looking, -sort of a 'Jimmy from Superman' look about him.
(http://images3.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20080909050113/superman/images/d/dd/JimmyOlsen-MarcMcclure.jpg)
Man was I wrong... :)
Dan
You guy have been buzzy, on my thread! (popcorn)
I'm at a Days inn and they only let you log in for 20 minutes. I tried to post yesterday and they cut me off.
All I can do is think about paint schemes.
a
After reading some posts, I was able to get the motor out. It was as easy as rotating the frame clockwise. I made a simple fulcrum and lifted it on to the bench.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04662.jpg~original)
I started cleaning the engine with Gunk just to get the heavy stuff. I'll use something stronger next like carb cleaner before I strip the paint off. I've been looking at the VHT and Dupli-color product. I've got some Ideas of what I want to do.
I got the frame hanging, half striped. It will stay there till the engine is done.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04663.jpg~original)
OK, This is what I want to do;
The tank and all the plastic will be candy apple red or red/blue mirage.
The engine head- red VHT flame paint. I'll polish as much of the engine as possible and use the dupli-color red anodize paint on the covers and such to make a contrast.
The frame- Red VHT krinkle paint
The swingarm-Red anodize
The wheels- Red anodize where the black is, otherwise polished.
Hopefully I'll get chrome headers.
Calipers- Blue or yellow
All the reds are different in shades and I think it will look very different. I'm looking for different.
What do you think?
The frame- Red VHT krinkle paint
Is this the paint that looks cracked and aged or the stuff that wrinkles up almost like anti-skid surfaces? The raised up crinkle stuff will a real Bitch to clean.
It should take solvent cleaning. I'll have to bake it on by making an enclosure that I can bring up the temp to 200 deg. for 20 min..
You can read about it here.http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/wrinkleplus/ (ftp://http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/wrinkleplus/)
I am talking about all the microscopic nooks and crannies that dirt gets into. We use a wrinkle finish where I work and this stuff is a sponge for dirt. Works well as anti-skid.
Quote from: FJmonkey on November 02, 2013, 06:13:26 PM
I am talking about all the microscopic nooks and crannies that dirt gets into. We use a wrinkle finish where I work and this stuff is a sponge for dirt. Works well as anti-skid.
:good2: Never get that "stuff" clean after a year or two. Looks like crap then. I woudn't even use it for anti skid but that's me. But we all make mistakes, I powder coated my wheels black... Now they are hard to keep clean looking.... :dash2:
George
Maybe you should pack it all up and send to me... It looks like a total loss... :sarcastic:
Ya! You guys are right. I'll have to forget about krinkle paint. It would look like crap in no time short. Thank for the input.
A little report on napa brand paint stripper.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04664.jpg~original)
Not very good. It did'nt work as I had expected. Some places bubbled up like the clutch cover where the casting is very smooth and In places where , I think, did'nt get degreased good before the paint was applied.
The can cost $8 and did'nt last long at all. The good side was the spray comes out in a jell, with almost no airbourne mist that might get breath in.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04665.jpg~original)
I used a popsicle stick to scrape and an acid brush to work it. I don't want to scratch the aluminum. It will just make it harder to polish later. Next I'll try "Zip Stripper brand" . If that don't work, I'll end up ordering cans of VHT stripper.
Joe, that is quite ambitious to plan on polishing the engine case, cylinder and head.
Any drips on the hot polished surface will stain. It can be polished out, but still...
(popcorn)
Quote from: Dan Filetti on October 22, 2013, 10:31:59 AM
Quote from: racerrad8 on October 21, 2013, 02:01:47 PM
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc517/racerrad8/018_zps505aebd4.jpg~original) (http://s1215.photobucket.com/user/racerrad8/media/018_zps505aebd4.jpg.html)
I thought I posted this comment yesterday, but it seems not to have taken...
You know how you get a picture in your head of what someone looks like before you meet them, then you meet them (or, as in this case, see a picture of them) and they are either somewhat close to your mental picture, or way the hell off? Well, for me, this is the latter. For whatever reason I pictured Randy as younger-looking, -sort of a 'Jimmy from Superman' look about him.
(http://images3.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20080909050113/superman/images/d/dd/JimmyOlsen-MarcMcclure.jpg)
Man was I wrong... :)
Dan
Dan, that's not Randy.
Or did I miss something?
Leon
Oh, for christsakes! Who then, is the guy standing in front of (actually to the side of) Pat's motor-less (exhaust-valve cooked/ need to be re-sprayed whichever...) bike?!!? I know it's not Pat.
Please enlighten me.
Does this mean that Randy does indeed look more like Jimmy from Superman?
Dan
Pat, I'm planning on painting the cylinder block red flame paint. I still want to get the black paint out and clean the metal so the new paint won't chip off because of the old black. There is'nt much black paint left because of the age. I'll face off the outside edge of the top 6 fins and polish those edges.
Most of the casings will be red anodize coating. The casings only have to be shiney for the anodize to look good.
The covers will be polished and clear coated. Red paint in the yamaha letters instead of black.
I'll probably polish the heads as much as I can.
I build my own blackpowder pistols from scratch. I fire forge my flintlock parts and polish them up. The last one I built took a year. I AM gonna drive this bike in the spring!
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04541.jpg~original)
Quote from: Dan Filetti on November 04, 2013, 02:03:18 PM
Oh, for christsakes! Who then, is the guy standing in front of (actually to the side of) Pat's motor-less (exhaust-valve cooked/ need to be re-sprayed whichever...) bike?!!? I know it's not Pat.
Please enlighten me.
Does this mean that Randy does indeed look more like Jimmy from Superman?
Dan
Dan, I was under the impression that that man is Randys test pilot extraordinaire of all things FJ - Mike.
Harvy
Now that you mention it, it does look quite like iron-butt Mike R., whom I have met. The hat threw me off.
Cheers!
Dan
Quote from: 1tinindian on November 04, 2013, 12:55:31 PM
Quote from: Dan Filetti on October 22, 2013, 10:31:59 AM
Quote from: racerrad8 on October 21, 2013, 02:01:47 PM
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc517/racerrad8/018_zps505aebd4.jpg~original) (http://s1215.photobucket.com/user/racerrad8/media/018_zps505aebd4.jpg.html)
I thought I posted this comment yesterday, but it seems not to have taken...
You know how you get a picture in your head of what someone looks like before you meet them, then you meet them (or, as in this case, see a picture of them) and they are either somewhat close to your mental picture, or way the hell off? Well, for me, this is the latter. For whatever reason I pictured Randy as younger-looking, -sort of a 'Jimmy from Superman' look about him.
(http://images3.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20080909050113/superman/images/d/dd/JimmyOlsen-MarcMcclure.jpg)
Man was I wrong... :)
Dan
Dan, that's not Randy.
Or did I miss something?
Leon
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/5/1651_09_06_13_9_39_42.jpeg)
:rofl2: :rofl2: :rofl2: George
Quote from: Dan Filetti on November 04, 2013, 02:03:18 PM
Oh, for christsakes! Who then, is the guy standing in front of (actually to the side of) Pat's motor-less (exhaust-valve cooked/ need to be re-sprayed whichever...) bike?!!? I know it's not Pat.
Please enlighten me.
Does this mean that Randy does indeed look more like Jimmy from Superman?
Dan
Dan, I think that's Mike"iron butt"Ramos breaking into randis shop and taking a crow bar to Pats bike
in a fit of shiny jealousy.
Scott
Hi Joe.
I don't wish to burst your bubble on your anodizing plan of the engine cases but reconsider your plan. All the cases are diecast aluminum which don't take well to anodizing. Most die castings have trace elements of silicone in them and turn any attempts of colour anodizing into a dog's breakfast. Also bear in mind that all other materials that are not aluminum will have to be removed prior to anodizing. Then there is the issue of heat and uv degradation. I am aware of the sealer coats that can be used but from my experience shiney red can turn into faded pink rapidly.
Before embarking on this project talk to a reputable anodizing shop and show them the pieces you wish to anodize and ask them if this is feasible and if they can guarantee the results.
Hein.
Hey Hein, No problem because it's not really anodize. I did post somewhere in this thread that it is paint, but I guess I did'nt explain it very well. It's a transparent red paint, what looks like anodize. It's good to 500 deg. and the same with the clear coat that I'm gonna put over it. Heres a link.
http://www.duplicolor.com/products/metalCast/ (ftp://http://www.duplicolor.com/products/metalCast/)
I tried the Zip Strip brand on the engine paint and it did'nt do anything. I can use it for something else but I need more power. Stronger, longer and harder paint stripper.
Needed to take some time to rethink how I gonna get the black paint off the motor. Read 10 posts or so on different sites and I read that "Aircraft Remover" is the best paint stripper on the market and that Home Depot sells it. I gotta get me some.
I'm doing this project with very little to spend and even after I use the aircraft remover there going to be a lot of black that just won't come off. I'm going to end up using the dremmel and I don't have the money to burn thru wire wheel bits. This is what I need to overcome. Somehow I need to make a abrasive sanding bit tool with what I've got in the shop.
In the mean time I started on the frames. I got the swingarm half done. I need to hit that with the paint stripper to get the clear coat off. The tail frame is half done. Started wet sanding it yesterday. Today I disassembled the main frame and started degreasing and wire wheeling. I want to get it to the point where I can take it on the road with me when I go to work. I can wet sand and prep it in the motel parking lot.
A few pics.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04677.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04678.jpg~original)
I'm waiting for a big diving job to start. I'm on call to mobilize. In the meantime I go clamming for a little extra money. Once I get the call, I'll be sitting pretty good for the winter. My son bought a paint sprayer and a water separator and he's going to paint it for me but I still got to buy paint.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04675.jpg~original)
Looks to me like I caught this just in time. Starting to rust. The welds look ok. I haven't seen one that's cracked yet.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04676.jpg~original)
A couple of pic of my progress and a question or two.
I got some frame ready for paint. I guess I'm gonna paint the frame florescent green. I change my mind every day just about. It's pretty fun to think about.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04679.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04681.jpg~original)
The decals came off pretty easy with a razor blade. I wet sanded with 320 but the scratches needed some 150. The tail piece had a line decal that separated the two-tone paint. That was difficult. The only tool that worked for me was a jack knife. Looks like somebody sat on the end, there's some cracks in the paint that go down to the plastic. I mite go a little deeper sanding there.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04684.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04686.jpg~original)
I finally got some stripper that works.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04682.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04687.jpg~original)
A question about the rear shock. Can that be taken apart so I can paint the coil and clean good?
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04689.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04690.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04691.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04692.jpg~original)
Quote from: Joe Sull on November 18, 2013, 03:40:32 PM
I finally got some stripper that works.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04687.jpg~original)
A question about the rear shock. Can that be taken apart so I can paint the coil and clean good?
Joe, I have found that a skinny wire wheel on a cordless drill works well in those locations (Wear a face mask)
With the flex of the spring, I have not had good results with painting. Perhaps powder coat? Dunno.
I stripped the coil Pat. It bubbled up like paint but it was thick and rubbery scale. It looks like tool dip. If I cut a plastic bottle into two leafs and get them around the shock to mask it, I could paint the coil with red tool dip. Reading your reply about paint not working to good, sparked that idea. Thanks.
Tool dip, ooooh, that's good Joe....why the hell didn't I think about that?
You should really plan on covering your shock (spring and all) with a dust boot.
It's pretty dirty under there and the shaft seals will thank you...
Cheers
I figure that I'm about half way done with all the prep work. I got the wheels stripped. The engines almost stripped except for some stuff under the timing chain tensioner. I'll have to pressure wash with some nice hot soapy water so I'll have to plug all my holes. The frames are done. Half done with the body parts. A bunch of little odds and ends to do now. Works been slow so I've been putting in 6-7 hours a day on it.
My list for paint. I still looking into the right primer for the job. The fluorescent green is expensive and, from what I've read, fades fast. I've learned that it's a candy coat and needs a metalic white base coat. $70 a pint just for the concentrate.
Engine cases-
hydraulic slaves-
top steering clamp-
wheels-
*Duplicolor
adhesion promotor_______ cp199 1 11oz. $8.99 $8.99
metalcast_______________ mc200 red 2 11oz. $9.99 $19.98
____________________________________________________________________
Engine cylinders-
exaust system-
*VHT
Prep FlameProof________SP445 Prep 1 11oz. $ 9.59 $ 9.59
Prime FlameProof________SP118 Primer 1 11oz. $11.99 $11.99
Coat FlameProof________SP109 red 1 11oz. $11.99 $11.99
Finish FlameProof________SP115 Clear 1 11oz. $11.99 $11.99
____________________________________________________________________
Primer__________________________________
frames-
license plate frame-
fairing frame-
*tcp global
ACRYLIC ENAMEL kit ______Hot Rod Red 1 quart $49.98 $49.98
____________________________________________________________________
body-
*tcp global
ACRYLIC ENAMEL kit firehorn red pearl 2 quart $49.98 $99.96
____________________________________________________________________
hand controls-
chain guard-
directionals-
rear fender-
battery box-
*Duplicolor
vinal & plastic _____________hvp100 red 1 11oz. $11.00 $11.00
_____________________________________________________________________
hand levers-
rear shock coil-
tool dip_________________________red 1 14.5oz. $12.50 $12.50
_____________________________________________________________________
Engine wiring-
Harnesses-
shrink wrap_______________________red
electrical tape___________________red 3/4x50" 6 $2.00 $12.00
_____________________________________________________________________
naptha based solvents____________________1 gallon $10.00
___________________________________________________________$270.47
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04700.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04701.jpg~original)
The stripper uncovered a repair under the blind plug cover I'll have to re do it.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/b11b4576-08a7-4bc9-921b-a709088c7333.jpg~original)
I'll probably have to use the old exaust at least for a while.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04702.jpg~original)
Been following your post and I too have to repair the area surrounding the blind plug...looks identical. You have much more expertise than I in this area and would really appreciate your input into how you are going to tackle the repair.
Thanks for any help. Rick, 1985 FJ1100.
I found a thread on the repair yesterday and can't find it again.
I'm just going to build up the area with jb weld. My damage is on each side of the bottom boss. The boss it self it good except for 3/16" rubbed off. I'll pot the outside with something that has the same radius like a piece of pvc pipe and mold in the putty, let it dry then shape it. I'll build up over the lower boss, around a screw with some tape around it to make clearance. I'll want to cut the head of the screw so I can drop the cover on it to set the height of the putty. If you search, you'll probably find it.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04716.jpg~original)
My homemade sanding discs work good! I made a little one for the dremmel but my tool has one speed, 13000 rpm and that too harsh for the neoprene to stand. It works great in the drill though. I don't think you can see it little one in the pic the spring is almost completely compressed and theres two nuts to lock against each other. Theres a neoprene disc under the emery. An old 7mm wet suit, I had to cut the thickness down in half so that it's like 3mm thk. It won't work without the neoprene. The contact cement works fine for gluing the discs on. You know how this stuff works. The screw is a #4x2" lg. It fits in the chuck if the dremmel and if I was to put a dimmer switch in the middle to slow it down, it would work. On the larger disc, The neoprene is the full 7mm and this one works really well in the high speed drill. I can clamp the drill in the vise and work the parts easily. I'm sanding with 220 in these pics and using water.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04717.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04719.jpg~original)
It get into small areas and outside corners pretty good. The neoprene allows me to roll up into the rounded inside corners. I can work the bosses to.
In all honesty, I don't recommend stripping the engine. You got to really want it. It's a bag of worms. Now that I've gotton into it, I'm starting to change my mind about putting the anodize coating on the cases. If I go so that the job is half ass, I'm there already. If I continue, It will look to nice to cover up.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04718.jpg~original)
The wheel are going to be tough to work, even just to make them bright. Bright enough to apply the anodize coating so that it's effective. I could spray the base coat that they offer but that would defeat the purpose of stripping the wheels. I've worked the areas that I can with the angle grinder. My new discs will work to get somemore but the drill itself is to awkward. I wish I had one of the dremmels that has the cable drive, that would work good. If I can just sand so there bright the anodize will look good. Thanks for watching as I flounder with this. :wacko1:
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04720.jpg~original)
looks like a real labour of love :good2:
you've got far more patience than i have
Amazing amount of work -- must have LONG, COLD winters up there!
I've kinda worked up the "silver bullet" for getting the wheel casting surfaces down to clean metal. It doesn't do everything but I can get most of the rim and the spokes. This pic is showing a man agoray of bits I've made. The dremmel sanding store bought drums with "fine" grade works best for getting under the peppered casting surface. I tried cementing a wrap of 220 on a spent drum and it works good but after dipping in water the drum starts to break up.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04741.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04744.jpg~original)
Let me introduct the "almost silver bullet". Cut a piece of wood dowel and coat one end with contact cement. Coat a piece sandpaper the same just enough to go around the dowel but leave a good tail, about 2". I've made 2 size, 1/4" and 3/8". Chuck it in the high speed drill dip in water and go.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04748.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04746.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04745.jpg~original)
When it starts to ware cut some of the tail off and if the tip wares just cut the tip off. you can sit down and make 10 and line them up.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04747.jpg~original)
The next step with the disc is is to get some double sided tape and make sandpaper stickons. It works good but it takes to much time to glue on the sand paper.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04743.jpg~original)
Good day!
Joe, you are investing a lot of time and effort on those pig heavy, narrow 16" rims.
You may be better off considering the 17" conversion sooner rather than later.
You might as well remove those wheel weights, you will have to rebalance them anyway.
I think we should take up a collection to replace some of those worn out rusted tools he's using. :-)
Hey Pat! I think all these production bike cast wheel are ugly. In my eye, one is as good as another. What I don't like is all the black. I think that I mensioned it before, I had 2 new 1100 suzukis in a row back in 83/86. I would have done the same thing to them if they were'nt new (and the bank did'nt own them). Live'n the dream buddy!
If I had the money, I'd go shopping for spoked rims. That would look good on an FJ, To me anyway.
Ya, I be taking of the wheel weights. I guess. I was'nt sure how much material had to come off to get to shiny metal. Theres probably a couple of ounces of alum flake on my bench. I'm getting close to where I want to be anyway. I ordered some duplicolor metalcast red and the adhesive promotor today. I'll do another 5 hour on each rim an that will be it. There going to look good red anodized instead of black.
FJ_Hooligan; I'll make a list for you guy. Yes send tools :blum1:
I admire your tenacity and can do spirit. Restoring these old bikes makes no sense at all. It is a labor of love. So I love seeing all the pictures of what you are doing with respect to cleaning the wheels. When my wheels needed doing I brought them to a powder coater nearby and for 60 bucks each they were media blasted and coated. An entire frame and tail section was done for 220. Any color you want. Of course those are the simplest ways of doing it. Just pay someone. Keep up the good work on the FJ and keep the pics coming.
I thought I read somewhere that red anodize will fade to pink over time?
Wow, perfect timing. I'm considering doing my wheels before March next year, and I'm looking at the rough cast spokes on the wheels thinking, "what do you do with that?" You can't put nice shiny Metalcast over rough cast wheels, they have to be baby bum smooth. I'm looking at one of the Metalcast blue colours for mine, make sure you use the Metalcast basecoat as well as the adhesion spray they make. I've been researching this Duplicolor procedure for ages, seems to be the right way to do it. The results can be stunning.
Our local powder coater/anodizer does a pretty spectacular job on bike wheels, around $140.00 per rim, still tossing up the best way to go. (dollars vs time/effort!) Can't wait to see your wheels finished, :good2:
I sat down and made a bunch of sanding implements and with the advice of a board member, I started using Velcro to fasten my sandpaper to the bit. It works great and the sponginess of it takes the place of the neoprene pad I was using. I made a dozen little discs and can change them out as I go without stopping to glue them individually.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04752.jpg~original)
The front wheel is more difficult than the back and I've worked it 12 hours so far. I've removed the raised cast lettering and the casting marks which were on the side you see. My angle grinder with a 120 sanding disc., Cut half the dia off with scissors and no backing disc, Made quick work of that.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04760.jpg~original)
The rear has 9 hour of work. I'll be removing all the lettering on this rim also. I'll be removing the wheel weights and getting under those too.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04759.jpg~original)
I'm still trying to visualize how I want the wheels to come out.
I have an Idea of how much I'm willing to polish. I don't want to put to much more time into it. So the directions on the metalcast can say's "shiny metal surface".
For the last two weeks or so, I've been looking on the web to get an answer my question. How shiny the bare metal has to be. I could not find it till tonight when I stumbled on to a kids post. He made a captain America shield and the post told me the answer. 100 grid. I've got it down to 220 now.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/7852157390_e4210b16b5_b.jpg~original)
Life is good!
The carbs under control now. You guys probably breeze through this. I got 12 hours easy disassembling and cleaning.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04765.jpg~original)
The main jet are 110's and the pilot's are 37.5. I've been reading about stepping up sizes according to modifications. I still
don't have a good handle on it. I got aftermarket cans= 1 sizes. I'll have unipods= 2 sizes =3 sizes minus 1 size= 2 sizes.
So I go to 115 main jet?
I got up 1 pilot jet size for 3 main sizes. so I go up to 40?
Still a little lost.
I had a good crack in my fairing and tried my welding skills. A buddy gave me one of the old lead melters that they used on bodywork
back in the day and it worked pretty good. I melted in some abs that I had from a old aquarium filter housing. I got it from both sides.
I got to clean up the hole. You guy have a cigarette lighter in yours? I want to get it working again for a charging output.
After I welded. It sank a little. Maybe if I heat up the area a little more and make sure it stays straight as it cools.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04764.jpg~original)
After I hit it with the sander. I could try some jw weld or just sand it a little and see what it looks like.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04766.jpg~original)
I'm running out of the bigger things to do on this project. It will be a happy day when I turn the corner and start putting it back together.
I still got tons of little things though like re taping all the harnesses with red electrical tape and redoing all the shrink wrap tubing in red..
Quote from: Joe Sull on December 18, 2013, 04:01:22 PM
The carbs under control now. You guys probably breeze through this. I got 12 hours easy disassembling and cleaning.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04765.jpg~original)
The main jet are 110's and the pilot's are 37.5. I've been reading about stepping up sizes according to modifications. I still
don't have a good handle on it. I got aftermarket cans= 1 sizes. I'll have unipods= 2 sizes =3 sizes minus 1 size= 2 sizes.
So I go to 115 main jet?
I got up 1 pilot jet size for 3 main sizes. so I go up to 40?
Still a little lost.
I had a good crack in my fairing and tried my welding skills. A buddy gave me one of the old lead melters that they used on bodywork
back in the day and it worked pretty good. I melted in some abs that I had from a old aquarium filter housing. I got it from both sides.
I got to clean up the hole. You guy have a cigarette lighter in yours? I want to get it working again for a charging output.
After I welded. It sank a little. Maybe if I heat up the area a little more and make sure it stays straight as it cools.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04764.jpg~original)
After I hit it with the sander. I could try some jw weld or just sand it a little and see what it looks like.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04766.jpg~original)
I'm running out of the bigger things to do on this project. It will be a happy day when I turn the corner and start putting it back together.
I still got tons of little things though like re taping all the harnesses with red electrical tape and redoing all the shrink wrap tubing in red..
(popcorn)
(popcorn)
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on December 09, 2013, 08:42:04 PM
Hooligan
"You COOK what you kill" (Chronicles of Riddick's Mother)
I'm watch'n you, now that you brought Chronicles of Riddick's Mother into it.
My windscreen was in bad shape so I used the Meguiar restoration plus on it today.
I cleaned it when I got the bike but it made no difference at all. Yellowed and stained
on both sides. The kit comes with 2 little sanding blocks two different grids on each
side ranging from 1800-2400 and the polish. I've already used the kit on my cars headlights
and wasn't sure how the sanding pads would work the second time around so I started
with some 1000 grid I have for my paint job.
Here's a shot after the 1000.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04767.jpg~original)
Working up and down then side to side, I went thru all the kits sanding pads.
Here's a few shots after I finished sanding.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04768.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04770.jpg~original)
When it came to buffing, I didn't think about it but I found out that I couldn't hold the part
and buff at the same time. I guess I'm not finished buffing yet. The screen has to be bolted
to something so I can have both hands on the drill. I think that if I put the drill in my vise and
then I'll have two hands on the screen, that will work too.
Here's the screen after the partial buffing.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04771.jpg~original)
I made my final pass on the fairing and my front fender. Ready for paint.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04772.jpg~original)
Quote from: Joe Sull on December 19, 2013, 01:31:17 PM
When it came to buffing, I didn't think about it but I found out that I couldn't hold the part
and buff at the same time. I guess I'm not finished buffing yet. The screen has to be bolted
to something so I can have both hands on the drill. I think that if I put the drill in my vise and
then I'll have two hands on the screen, that will work too.
Got something like one of those little Workmate tables? :unknown:
You could fasten it to that.
I had a work table, now it's a coal forge table station thing.
I never had a use it, just rusting away in the dooryard till I
made something out of it. Good idea though! I'll just put the drill in the vise.
It works. I won't do it when it's back on the bike, with a new paint job.
Polishing compound spattering everywhere. Not good!
The temp. just made it over 32 deg. today and it's going to be warm thru
the weekend. I'll be able to pressure wash my engine. If I can get that done
I can paint it. My sons got a wood stove in his shop so that's were all these parts are
going next.
Thanks for the reply.
I'm happy as a clam cause I got to pressure wash my engine today.
I borrowed the washer a week ago and have been waiting till the temp
got above freezing. It was 38 deg this morning. I made a sling so I could lift
the engine and bring it outside. Everybody I know went snow machining today.
Just me to get it done. I smeared the last of my paint stripper on the spots
that needed it and let that sit while I set up the washer. She came out good.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04778.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04780.jpg~original)
One think that I forgot to do is face off the fins I want to polish. I started to but then got
sidetracked. I still got to clean with prep so I guess I can face off those fins, blow the
shavings off and clean with the prep.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04785.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04784.jpg~original)
What I was real happy with was the way the top of the head, between the fins
came out. That's were most of the paint stripper went.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04783.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04782.jpg~original)
and here's the bottom
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04786.jpg~original)
There's still a few spot of black but I'm happy with it. Looks good from my house.
I took the engine, frames and exhaust to my sons shop were it will get painted.
I'm thinking of partially assembling the bike there. Frame, engine and wheels then bring it
back to my house to finish.
Happy day
Getting the windscreen buffed out looks great. :good2:
Fred
Thanks Fred;
I saved a tidy sum doing that. I'm glad the screen was made out of a good material in the first place. It must be a good lexan.
4 more hours on the tank today finished the body prep.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04787.jpg~original)
Generator is coming along. A few more times around with sandpaper and it'll be ready for the metalcast.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04788.jpg~original)
I have to ask...do builds like this think about replacing guide seals? The rest of the engine could give OK comp and leakdown #'s but after 30 years you know those small, rubber pieces called guide seals are toast. Unless....like CB750 and Z900 guys.....soaking them in wintergreen brings them to the fountain of youth. I am just curious. :biggrin:
Are you talking about these: SEAL,VALVE STEM?
My goal is a short list.
1) Tear down and repaint the bike.
2) Rebuild the carburetors.
The engine ran great except for the carbs. I won't be braking any seals on the engine this time around.
Quote from: JMR on December 23, 2013, 05:24:03 PM
I have to ask...do builds like this think about replacing guide seals? The rest of the engine could give OK comp and leakdown #'s but after 30 years you know those small, rubber pieces called guide seals are toast. Unless....like CB750 and Z900 guys.....soaking them in wintergreen brings them to the fountain of youth. I am just curious. :biggrin:
I think my valve stem seals are crap and need to be replaced. That's on the docket after the next WCR. I wouldn't even think about "refreshing" them. To much work to get the head off to get to the seals, buy new ones and be careful installing them. Here is part of a thread showing the seals and installing them.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=7854.165 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=7854.165) interesting to look at anyhow. Not looking forward to doing the job because like all projects
when you tear into the project there will be other things to check/replace etc......:dash2:
George
George, IIRC someone mentioned replacing their valve seals without removing the head.
I remember this because they reminded me of an old racers trick of keeping the valves seated when you remove the springs (necessary to get the new seals over the valve stems).
Rotate the crank so the piston is down to BDC, now thru the spark plug hole, feed in some soft nylon line, then rotate the crank so the piston rises up to near TDC.
The piston squeezes the nylon line up against the valves, holding them seated in place so you can remove the springs.
Pretty damn clever if you ask me.
I read of this before but my question is what tool do you use to compress the springs and get the keepers off with the head on ? I have located a valve spring compressor that will work with the recessed buckets and seals and plan on buying one for the job then sell it when I am done. I have read about the rope trick and have some reservations about it based on my past experience in tearing down auto heads. I made an adapter for a recessed bucket to do a diesel VW head once and it worked but I promised myself to get the correct tool next time. I did a little digging on e bay and discovered a tool that would work and wasn't all that expensive. I can sell it to someone else after I am done. Think of it as rent. :good2:
In my opinion it smokes on start up notably more when it is left over night on the center stand. On the side stand it seems to be less. After warmed up it seems good. Just something to do in the future. I had planned on looking into it this winter but other things have taken priority.
Have a good day this Xmas eve to you and yours and remember that truck stops are open all night tonight so you can finish up your shopping :rofl: :rofl:...
Cheers George
I replaced mine with the head on and the only real pain we ran into was the exhaust valve stems, but that was due to the engine being in the bike and the frame being in the way of the tool. Fortunately, we eventually figured a way around that.
To keep the valves closed, we put the cylinder (of the valves we were working on at the time) at TDC and used compressed air to keep the valve's shut.
To compress the valve springs we fabricated our own tool. I unfortunately don't have any picts of the tool handy, but if your interested, I'll try to get some up within the next week. I'll try to give a brief description of how we fabricated it:
We took a metal tube that is roughly 25mm in diameter (diameter of the valve bucket), and cut it to a length of about 3+ inches (7-8 cm's).
We then tack welded a washer (roughly 24 -25mm outer diameter and with an inner hole big enough to fit around the valve stem and the retainer c-clips) to one end of it (becomes the bottom of the tool) thus forming a cylinder.
We then used some 1/4 inch square tubing to make a T-handle and welded that to the opposite end of the tube.
At this point we had something that looked like a cylinder with a small whole in the bottom wall and a T handle affixed to the top.
Next, we cut out a section of the the cylinder's side wall so that we could not only see the valve stem and retaining clips when the valve springs were compressed, but also to allow us to get a pair of needle nose pliers inside the cylinder tube (inserting/removing the c-clips).
Lastly we used a wheel grinder to grind down and polish out any burrs or rough edges along the bottom edges and sides of the cylinder tube.
Here's a rough artistic interpretation to give you an idea:
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/FeralG/Misc/WTFValveSpringcompressorjpeg_zps8e0e0f04.jpeg)
Just so that you know, this tool works best when you have someone to help you (one person to compress the spring, and the other removes/installs the c-clips). Using this tool, we were able to get the intake valve stem seals replaced within about 45 minutes. As mentioned above, where we ran into a problem was the exhaust side of the engine. There is plenty of room and easy access for the tool to be used easily on the intake valve stems, but due to the engine being in the frame, the cylinder head was inclined forward enough to make using the tool all but impossible with the frame being in the way. We did have enough room to get the tool in, but were not able to get enough leverage behind the tool to compress the spring. Our solution was to zip tie a breaker bar across the top of the frame and use it as a fulcrum for another breaker bar that was used as a lever for the tool. This did allow us to get the exhaust side done, but it did add about another hour and a half (2+ hours more) to do the exhaust side. The issue we ran into here was keeping the tool and lever mechanism in alignment. Though not extremely difficult, it was a bit of a pain at times. We did find that zip tying both the tool to the leverage bar, and the leverage bar to the fulcrum bar, did help quite a lot. However, we still spent a lot of energy keeping everything in alignment.
I'm impressed! You guy's are pretty savvy. I will admit that if JMR hadn't mentioned it, I would never have given it a thought till my bike started burning oil. I SHOULD do this maintenance while the engine is out of the bike but I can not because of money. It's going to have to wait for me till next year.
Al thought I'm extremely interested in what you people have to say on this subject, I think the topic will get lost in my humble little refurbishing thread. It deserves it's own. I hope you will make a searchable topic for it and I will be hanging on every word.
Joe
Quote from: FeralRdr on December 24, 2013, 02:48:55 PM
I replaced mine with the head on and the only real pain we ran into was the exhaust valve stems, but that was due to the engine being in the bike and the frame being in the way of the tool. Fortunately, we eventually figured a way around that.
To keep the valves closed, we put the cylinder (of the valves we were working on at the time) at TDC and used compressed air to keep the valve's shut.
To compress the valve springs we fabricated our own tool. I unfortunately don't have any picts of the tool handy, but if your interested, I'll try to get some up within the next week. I'll try to give a brief description of how we fabricated it:
We took a metal tube that is roughly 25mm in diameter (diameter of the valve bucket), and cut it to a length of about 3+ inches (7-8 cm's).
We then tack welded a washer (roughly 24 -25mm outer diameter and with an inner hole big enough to fit around the valve stem and the retainer c-clips) to one end of it (becomes the bottom of the tool) thus forming a cylinder.
We then used some 1/4 inch square tubing to make a T-handle and welded that to the opposite end of the tube.
At this point we had something that looked like a cylinder with a small whole in the bottom wall and a T handle affixed to the top.
Next, we cut out a section of the the cylinder's side wall so that we could not only see the valve stem and retaining clips when the valve springs were compressed, but also to allow us to get a pair of needle nose pliers inside the cylinder tube (inserting/removing the c-clips).
Lastly we used a wheel grinder to grind down and polish out any burrs or rough edges along the bottom edges and sides of the cylinder tube.
Here's a rough artistic interpretation to give you an idea:
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/FeralG/Misc/WTFValveSpringcompressorjpeg_zps8e0e0f04.jpeg)
Just so that you know, this tool works best when you have someone to help you (one person to compress the spring, and the other removes/installs the c-clips). Using this tool, we were able to get the intake valve stem seals replaced within about 45 minutes. As mentioned above, where we ran into a problem was the exhaust side of the engine. There is plenty of room and easy access for the tool to be used easily on the intake valve stems, but due to the engine being in the frame, the cylinder head was inclined forward enough to make using the tool all but impossible with the frame being in the way. We did have enough room to get the tool in, but were not able to get enough leverage behind the tool to compress the spring. Our solution was to zip tie a breaker bar across the top of the frame and use it as a fulcrum for another breaker bar that was used as a lever for the tool. This did allow us to get the exhaust side done, but it did add about another hour and a half (2+ hours more) to do the exhaust side. The issue we ran into here was keeping the tool and lever mechanism in alignment. Though not extremely difficult, it was a bit of a pain at times. We did find that zip tying both the tool to the leverage bar, and the leverage bar to the fulcrum bar, did help quite a lot. However, we still spent a lot of energy keeping everything in alignment.
Thank you! Yes if you have time next week please post or PM me with a picture or two. Last week I built a shock spring compressor which works fine for home use. Good idea on starting a "tool" thread. TNX have a good Xmas.
George
Quote from: movenon on December 24, 2013, 05:41:12 PM
Thank you! Yes if you have time next week please post or PM me with a picture or two. Last week I built a shock spring compressor which works fine for home use. Good idea on starting a "tool" thread. TNX have a good Xmas.
George
Will do George. My buddy still has the tool and has used it several times when doing work on the heads of other machines. I'll make a note to stop by and take a picture of it.
4 days work, about 10 hours of sanding on these not including stripping
the clear coat. They are actually quite rough from the factory.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04807.jpg~original)
I've seen pics of the guy that have done this on there bike here. :hi:
I dry sanded 100 220 and then wet sanded 400 then 600. There ready for polishing.
The factory polished areas were still rough. One brush of the sand paper reveals deep
scratches and unevenness. The rest of the surfaces look just like the rims.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04808.jpg~original)
I filed the casting lines and worked the areas around the anti- dive blocks best I could.
I won't break those seals now.
(http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/418/picture033sy.jpg)
Try one of these. Makes life so much easier. Use Rouge Buffing Polishing Compound on the polish wheel after the brown pad to get the old clear coat off.
(http://img810.imageshack.us/img810/3247/picture046gi.jpg)
CraigO
Quote from: craigo on January 01, 2014, 05:20:40 PM
(http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/418/picture033sy.jpg)
Try one of these. Makes life so much easier. Use Rouge Buffing Polishing Compound on the polish wheel after the brown pad to get the old clear coat off.
I just recently got one just like that. :yes:
I'll be getting some of the black compound stick, if that's what your talking about. I got the red stuff but I'll use that after the black. That's one hell of a bench grinder. I got a 1/3 hp ace hardware piece of...well, it isn't that good. My buzz grinder has more power and that's what I'll probably rig up with a buffing pad. I got my wheels to do also.
What did you mean by "brown pad"?
Bwwwhaaaahaaaahaaaa......my virus is spreading....
Looking good Craig :good2: Headers next ? :lol:
George
Quote from: Joe Sull on January 01, 2014, 07:05:52 PM
What did you mean by "brown pad"?
I used red, black, and white rouge.
The brown pad is like a cellious green pad, only not as abrasive and mounts of the bench grinder. Great for stripping off all the crude buildup and clear coat. Makes taking the forks down to bare metal a lot easier.
(http://catalogue.3m.eu/pcimages/7225/fullsize.jpg)
And yes Pat, your bike has inspired this work. However, as far as the headers,,,, I don't think so. I'm afraid of snapping a bolt or some such thing. You know the old saying about leaving laying shit lie..
CraigO
Craig, on the headers I was afraid of snapping a stud off also but I got an allen wrench and tugged on one of the retaining nut vowing not to force it and found out they were extremely easy to undo. Kind of a judgment call. Any how they polish up easier than you think. Keeping them polished is another problem. I haven't figured out that one yet :good2:.
George
Thanks Craig, I'll look for them. Since you guy's are in the mood for the detail work
I have revisited a few parts that I thought buffed out lousy. They still showed some casting
pits that I didn't like.
The upper clamp is made out of an alloy what I'll describe as "The hardest material known to man"
It laughs at 100# grid sandpaper. Again, I sanded the living piss out of it. I finally got it right.
It will only be getting a clear coat I decided. It ready for the polishing wheel.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04812.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04813.jpg~original)
I got the sprocket cover ready.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04811.jpg~original)
I went back to 100# grid and came up through to 600# with the clutch slave too.
I didn't like the way it looked. ready for polish and clear coat.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04814.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04815.jpg~original)
I ordered my frame paint. Hot rod red acrylic enamel and it's on the way.
Getting closer!
With all this sanding, one wonders how much weight you've shaved off? Every little bit helps. You've obviously a vision with this bike. It's going to be quiet thrilling to see the finished article.
Andy
Thanks for the kind words Andy.
I guess that I have a vision of what I want this bike to look like. It's not like I had a dream or anything :wacko2:.
The way I look at it, you buy a bike that you like. It's a package that's pleasing to the eye but it's basic. They make
any number of them and except for 1 or 2 color scheme differences there the same. A lot of people put a lot of thought into
these machines. I think there great just the way they are except for the details like rough castings that are covered with
thick black paint. I'll just want to make it my own. :blum1: I have Hot rod red paint coming for the frames. I'm looking
at something much brighter for the body. Here some links that I've been looking at. They my be usefull.
Hot rod red.
http://www.colorcodehex.com/d20117/ (ftp://http://www.colorcodehex.com/d20117/)
Coral red.
http://encycolorpedia.com/ff4040 (ftp://http://encycolorpedia.com/ff4040)
These site take some time to get to know your way around. I've learned a lot.
I was looking at the complimentary color, Cyan. I might try to fit that into my scheme.
I might just finish sanding and polish the wheels. I'm already 2/3 of the way there.
I got 3 months till I need the bike running.
My idea is to make it look different, maybe radical but still pleasing to the eye.
The amount of time and effort you are spending on your bike humbles me. Keep up the good work.
Johnnie, It's just cause I've got nothing to do at this time of year. All our work is seasonal and we just hunker down for the winter.
A little story;
I went up to a auto supply store to buy some paint a couple of weeks ago. I told the guy I wanted some bright red paint and he asked me for the code. I told him that I had already called before hand and someone said just come up and we'll look it up for you. So he found some bright red paint and said how about hot rod red and showed me a page on his computer. "That looks good" I said. He goes back and mixes up the paint. 20 minutes later he comes out with the quart and pops the lid. It looked like some sort of pinkish, mauve, kucky color. I said "That ain't the color you showed me." "we'll , it looks different on the computer" he Say's. "You don't expect me to pay for that do you?
I walked. I came home and looked up hot rod red on the TC Global site and they had it. It's the color I wanted. I ordered it and started looking into another color for the body of the bike. I want the frame hot rod red. I searched on google " hot rod red" images. There must be 100 shades of this color and most of them looked like the color the guy mixed at the store. :bomb:
I got cold feet and tried to call and change my order but no answer. I tried emailing. Two days went by and I got an email saying it was to late, the paint was already in route.
I figured, with my luck, it's going to end up the same kucky color as the guy mixed me in the store. Well...It came in today and it exactly what I wanted. I'm happy as a clam with it and it's going to work out with my color scheme perfect. Here's a couple of pics.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04862.jpg~original)
The little dot on top says it all.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/hotrodred.jpg~original)
I got some other stuff done.
I took the white connectors on my coils apart and cleaned good.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04860.jpg~original)
I sanded the hell out of the rotors and the swing arm will be metalcast green or red, I will think it over.
It's getting good now!
If you want to specify a color (colour for those of UK bent) use the Pantone system.
It is the most widely used set of standard colors available and every printer will know and be able to match to it.
Here's a site to start with: http://sumerdigital.com/pantone_colour_chart.php?tabs=0 (http://sumerdigital.com/pantone_colour_chart.php?tabs=0)
There are also supplimentary pantone charts for gloss and metallic colors
Arnie
:yahoo: I've turned the corner and moving toward the bike going back together. I was all ready to paint the frames today but the wife through her back out and she's hirt'n. At the moment, I don't have to much time to myself so it will wait a little. I am able to work at the kitchen table and have been doing some painting.
Denatured alcohol for cleaning and painting with rustoleum has very little odor. So I'm just sitting down generating eye candy.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04867.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04866.jpg~original)
It's a nice warm day and I have been able to spray some metalcast. The parts really sparkle
in the sun and I like it.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04863.jpg~original)
I painted the starter, the steel part, in the middle with rustoleum and the alum. ends are metalcast.
The generator has some rustoleum in the insets in front.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04864.jpg~original)
The front wheel looks really good. I taped off the areas I'm going to polish, basically the same as it was.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04865.jpg~original)
I'll be clearcoating all the metalcast soon.
Quote from: movenon on December 24, 2013, 05:41:12 PM
.........
Thank you! Yes if you have time next week please post or PM me with a picture or two. Last week I built a shock spring compressor which works fine for home use. Good idea on starting a "tool" thread. TNX have a good Xmas.
George
Sorry George for taking a little longer than anticipated to get these posted up.
As you can see, the tool has been modified again. In order to make the tool more single user friendly, my friend cut off the T-Handle, and welded on a large bolt. This allowed him to use the tool in conjunction with his drill press to compress and hold the valve springs. This does mean that the head has to come off, and he does have to rig up a bracket to align the head in a way that places the valve stem perfectly in alignment with the tool, but it does make it easier for one person to use the tool. Of course an actual dedicated valve spring compressor tool would work even better and easier, but the cost of a good one is prohibitive for him, and this works well enough for his needs. Also, he figures that if for any reason he needs to compress the valve spring with the head on the engine, he could always weld another handle on an appropriate sized nut and just screw it on to the bolt.
The tool on the left is just a U-shaped piece of square stock with half of a washer welded to one end. This is what we used to get the old valve stem seals off. With that tool, all we had to do was just slip the tool down along the valve stem, and just hook the half washer end under the old seal and just gently lift it up. This prevents damaging the seal as you remove it. Our concern was having the old seals come apart on us as we pulled them out and ending up with debris in the valves.
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/FeralG/Misc/DSC00850_zpsc07a3f52.jpg)
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/FeralG/Misc/DSC00854_zpsf5305d47.jpg)
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/FeralG/Misc/DSC00855_zps2c7031c7.jpg)
Thanks I will give that a try when I get caught up on the FJ. Got 3 little current mods going all at once on the FJ. I would like to get one or two done before I do the valve stem seals. But I do have a start on it :).....
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/1651_12_01_14_5_48_33.jpeg)
3/4 inch thin wall deep socket, fits nicely on a 25 mm shim.
Sorry about hi jacking your thread Joe.... Back to regular programing....
George
Quote from: movenon on January 12, 2014, 05:54:33 PM
3/4 inch thin wall deep socket, fits nicely on a 25 mm shim.
George, that might be too big, the valve spring retainer is smaller then the bucket & shim.
I am not at the shop to measure a retainer to confirm.
Randy - RPM
I am short on data there Randy. The only work in that area of the FJ that I have done is adjust the valves. I think what happens is that washer you see in the photo gets welded to the bottom of the modified socket thus providing a shoulder to rest on the keeper retainer, the hole is to let the stem and keeper through.
At least that's the way I visualize it ?
The best way is to just remove the head and change the stem seals but I am up for a challenge I guess..... :dash2: Have to design an adjustable rod or attachment for a controlled levering point. I am resisting pulling the head off because of my "nature" :rofl: If the head comes off it will be a financial avalanche..... Then the whole top end.... etc..
My compression gauge has a air coupler on it with a 18mm plug fitting on the end and a while back I ordered some adapters to convert the 18mm to 14- 12 and 10mm plug threads. So I can just couple the hose up via the 12mm adapter to my air compressor with the piston at TDC. Might be a bad think if the air pressure pushed down the piston :lol: I will lock it and keep the PSI down until I get warm fuzzy that all is well.
I will order the seals when I get that closer Randy. I have some other irons in the fire to get out first.
George
I'll try to double check the actual measurement of the tool's diameter tomorrow if possible (if my buddy is in his shop). Though I did not design the tool, I do recall we used one of my buckets as a guideline for the dimension, and my previous statement of a 25mm diameter was based on the size of the FJ's shim size. Also, I'll double check on the recommended PSI for keeping the valves closed.
George is correct for how the washer on the bottom of the tool is the part that pushes against the spring retainer (at least that's what the design was intended to do).
The outside diameter of the socket is the same as a shim so it should slip down fine. I can dress the outside diameter a bit if needed ?
Thanks.
George
OK I heard from my buddy and he sent me these picts, and reafirmed that 25mm should be fine.
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/FeralG/Misc/imagejpeg_0_zpsacf61e17.jpg)
As you can see, the tool is a hair over an inch (1 inch = 25.4 mm). If I remember correctly, the bucket is a just a little bit larger than the shim, as there is a raised rim that holds the shim in place on top of the bucket. I can confirm that this tool easily fits in the bucket's hole.
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/FeralG/Misc/imagejpeg_1_zps9ed5a9e5.jpg)
Unfortunately, in regards to how much PSI is needed to keep the valves closed, I can't give you a firm number. My buddy couldn't recall what it took, but he did recall putting a 2x4 through the rear wheel to keep the crank from turning. He suggested starting at about 60 PSI and working your way up if necessary.
Thanks :good2: The OD of the Craftsman 3/4" deep thin wall 3/8" drive socket is 25.14mm. A piece of sandpaper would trim .14mm in a heart beat. But it looks and feels perfect setting on top of a shim. Probably work as is.
And thanks again to Joe for letting us jump in on his thread. Keep the pictures coming Joe :good2:
George
Not to keep leading this topic down the wrong road, but the valve spring retainer OD is .875 (22mm) and the flat area of the retainer is around .720 (18mm). I am not sure why you need to add the washer if you just start with a smaller socket. If there is enough internal material to catch the outer edge of the retainer with your 3/4" socket you already made you should be fine.
This is very similar to the tool I use;
(http://www.shopfreedomracing.com/images/1349660484047-303008297.jpeg)
You want to keep the hole in the center as large as possible as it makes it much easier to install the valve keepers. I found the type you have made to work we at disassembly, but when assembling to makes it difficult to get the keeper installed on both sides, which is why I have something very similar to the tool pictured above.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: racerrad8 on January 13, 2014, 12:00:46 PM
Not to keep leading this topic down the wrong road, but the valve spring retainer OD is .875 (22mm) and the flat area of the retainer is around .720 (18mm). I am not sure why you need to add the washer if you just start with a smaller socket. If there is enough internal material to catch the outer edge of the retainer with your 3/4" socket you already made you should be fine.
This is very similar to the tool I use;
(http://www.shopfreedomracing.com/images/1349660484047-303008297.jpeg)
You want to keep the hole in the center as large as possible as it makes it much easier to install the valve keepers. I found the type you have made to work we at disassembly, but when assembling to makes it difficult to get the keeper installed on both sides, which is why I have something very similar to the tool pictured above.
Randy - RPM
Thanks for the input Randy. I may revamp the socket. Using the larger diameter socket with the washer on the end for a shoulder when the valve stem raises into the open area of the socket you would have a little more room to deal with the small keepers it would seem ? As you can tell I am running in the dark doing this and solving problems as I go. When I get to the point of actually doing this I will order the seals from you and post the information (minus the profanity :lol:).
George
Hey, go right ahead. I just hope theres enough key words so as this dosen't get lost but I'll know right were to find it when it's my turn to do the valve stem seals.
In the mean time, I've got bigger fish to fry. :dance2:
More pics!
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04870.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04871.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04872.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04873.jpg~original)
Three hours masking
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04868.jpg~original)
Ready for clearcoat tomorrow.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04869.jpg~original)
Joe, what are you going to do with the center of the wheel that is exposed but you only fogged with color?
Randy - RPM
What the hell was I thinking...They got a saying up this way. "Dawn breaks over Marble head" and it's used as a double meaning because of a place on the shore, down in massachussetts called Marble head where people go to watch the sun rise. I had it in my mind that the rotor covered the area. Thanks for spotting that. I'll fix it tomorrow.
Love the color! Nice work! :good2:
Thanks Keand3
I fix the front rim by getting the metalcast on that center area and I got the rear wheel caught up with the front.
Almost had the clearcoat on but it started raining. I guess tomorrow.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04875.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04874.jpg~original)
I've just posted a file showing a simple tool you can make to R & R valve guide seals.
The depression head is similar to what's been discussed and shown, but the pivot and lever mount are what makes this good.
It allows you to easily do this job on your own while the engine remains in the frame.
I'm sorry, but can't remember who sent it to me. I think it was a member from either here or the Yahoo FJ list.
Title is "Valve Guide Seal Replacement" in the Files/General Maintainence section.
Arnie
Quote from: racerrad8 on January 13, 2014, 12:00:46 PM
Not to keep leading this topic down the wrong road, but the valve spring retainer OD is .875 (22mm) and the flat area of the retainer is around .720 (18mm). I am not sure why you need to add the washer if you just start with a smaller socket. If there is enough internal material to catch the outer edge of the retainer with your 3/4" socket you already made you should be fine.
This is very similar to the tool I use;
(http://www.shopfreedomracing.com/images/1349660484047-303008297.jpeg)
You want to keep the hole in the center as large as possible as it makes it much easier to install the valve keepers. I found the type you have made to work we at disassembly, but when assembling to makes it difficult to get the keeper installed on both sides, which is why I have something very similar to the tool pictured above.
Randy - RPM
Wheels are clearcoated and completed. I'll be painting the rotors and the sprocket with the frame, Hot rod red.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04877.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04878.jpg~original)
They glow in the sunlight. :biggrin:
Just got back from painting the frames, rotors, kickstand, sprocket, clipons and hub over to my sons. :biggrin:
Here they are with 3 coats still wet. Hot rod red!
My son took these pics with his phone and posted on facebook then I copied them.
I'll get pics of the other parts tomorrow.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/1506265_754120951283332_416868878_o.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/1524911_754121014616659_1315208733_n.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/1495490_754120924616668_321463536_n.jpg~original)
They should darken a bit. The camera makes the images look more orange than they are.
I love the color.
I got some more parts done. here's the battery box painted with 2 coats of the duplicolor adhesive promotor and 3 coats of vinyl and fabric red. I got the fenders ready to paint.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04885.jpg~original)
Couple of othere pics
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04886.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04887.jpg~original)
I guess the Red Power Range honor needs to be passed on at this point... :cray: Maybe I will find a white cat and dye it RED to compete and hold my position of honor.... Poor cat.... :shok:
Sorry guy. :biggrin: Anything I can do to help? :sarcastic:
I got a white and black cat you can have. It ain't a very good cat, pretty skiddish but
if you give it a silver metallic base coat and spray candy apple red it mite
come out of it.
Engine is painted! I still haven't got the blind plug cover repair done yet. The last 3 days has been the only time I've had to do the painting. Temp. has been really cold and keeping his wood stove going just to set epoxy would be dumb.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/1497883_754591534569607_1933262449_o.jpg~original)
My son kept the fire going last night for the frame. It is dry to the touch and we hung all the parts on the wall for another night and painted the engine.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/1534976_754591554569605_678046549_o.jpg~original)
The temp's going to be around 30 deg tonight. I brought over a propane heater to help and he'll load the stove and turn the heater on before he goes to bed. Tomorrow nights low is going down to 0 and Monday -7 so I'll pick up the parts and bring them home. The frame parts should be good outside by then but the engine will have to come in the house for 7 days till it cures. My wife's going to want me to put it under the kitchen table. Ha!
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/1614163_754591607902933_1605062940_o.jpg~original)
We will see if this stuff is going to hold up.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/1512192_754591651236262_44658092_o.jpg~original)
For better or for worse, it's done
The engine looks awesome. :good: :good: :good2: I hope it holds up well with the engine heat.
Fred
Very nice. The best way to learn is to try. That motor looks evil!!!!
Thanks guy's. My son camera phone does strange things to the color. It must be the flash. I got the frames and the engine home today and brought the engine right in to the spare room. It says on the can, 7 days to cure. The frame is cured and hardened right up and will stay in my shop.
I took some pics with my camera to show the color better. My flash shines orange back but it shows that is red and not a Burgundy color.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04888.jpg~original)
I can still see a few black spots I missed but I'm good with it.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04889.jpg~original)
I've been looking into another color that's pearl for the body. I'm thinking something even brighter than "hot rod red"
Looking up this color on google/ images you find all different shades of hot rod red. Some are redish creamy pinkish and
some are bright red on the orange side. This is what I ended up with and happy about it. It's a crazy color. In low
light it looks like it's on the pinkish side and I've been looking at even brighter reds on the pink side.
The fararri red is on the pink side. I can't afford a thimble full of that stuff so I was looking at colors that are close to it.
Scarlet is a close match (from what I've read).
fararri red
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/Gloss-Ferrari-Red.gif~original)
Scarlet
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/Scarlet-Red.gif~original)
This pic of my frame with a close flash shows red /orange
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/1495490_754120924616668_321463536_n.jpg~original)
I really dont want to make a mistake here. I rather just paint the body the hot rod red.
The engine shines red / orange in lots of light but it does the same thing in low light, Red / pink.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04888.jpg~original)
Now I'm looking at this "Toxic tomato pearl"
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/13423821060851105521628.jpg~original)
$80 quart kit. You get a quart of the paint, a quart of the clearcoar and all the hardeners and redusers.
It needs white primer.
I can still see a few black spots I missed but I'm good with it.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04889.jpg~original)
Hey Joe, You can't leave the motor like that, all that time and effort you put in to get all the old paint off and make it shiny, it'd be wrong not to touch it up. Your other parts especially your wheels look great.
Keep up the work, it'll be interesting to see the finished product.
Tony.
:good2:
Wow, Parts look fantastic Joe. I really appreciate anyone that can do something unique, creative and enchanting. That color is enchanting. A whole bike that color is mind-boggling. Are you still planning on painting the fairing and the tank solid?
Enjoying your thread, really looking forward to seeing it all put back together. :drinks:
Jeff
I got to draw the line somewhere, Tony. This whole thing's seems kinda crazy. Soaking all the hardware in pine sol and scrubbing them with a toothbrush? Come on, I must loosing it. Of corse all heads of the hardware have to be painted red and after dry be lightly oiled.
Hey Jeff, What I want to do is paint the body (tank, fairing, fender, side panels and duck bill) A brighter pearl color than the frame. The only paint I have found so far is the "Toxic tomato pearl" but its a little to orange. If I cannot find a pearl, I'll use the solid "hot rod red".
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/13423821060851105521628.jpg~original)
Take a look if you like at these really nice colors.
http://thecoatingstore.com/pearl-colors/ (ftp://http://thecoatingstore.com/pearl-colors/)
My old 83 suzuki was suzuki pearl red. Thats $186 a quart now.
This looks similar.
I'll look around some more. Thanks for the replies. Joe
A little preview. I guess I'm go'n for it. I got this done and ready to clearcoat. I leaned it against a wall to dry and it fell.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04890.jpg~original)
It fell, what, 18 inches but it hit everything in the room going down. Mared the hell out of it. The Rain! :ireful:
What I'm going to do is make my own fork seal covers like these.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/024-SSL134-R.jpg~original)
I've got the neoprene and the fabric paint. That will cover the tubes and red them out, They might even
help the fork seals. :biggrin:
Are you going to red-tint the mirror glass?
I noticed that these tires still appear to be available:
(http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu159/rktmanfj/7f5490c09ddf3c596212de5e5f673568_full_zps399f31f6.jpg~original)
That would go good on this bike. I bet there $200 each though. I did see flourscent blue green and yellow in a pic. I'm gonna look in to it for next year. They would look over the top :mail1:
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04896.jpg~original)
I thought the body of the shock was silver painted steel but it's aluminum. I sanded it and I'll clearcoat
the whole thing after I spray the coil. I might try the fabric and vinyl just to save money.
It should work. It's flexable. I got a little aggravated getting the paper inside the coil.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04893.jpg~original)
I figure I have about 20 hours left before I start assembling.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04895.jpg~original)
I am hanging out to see what your bike looks like with all that RED Joe........this has been and will continue to be a much anticipated re-build in my book.
Cheers
Harvy
Quote from: Harvy on January 22, 2014, 12:21:56 AM
I am hanging out to see what your bike looks like with all that RED Joe........this has been and will continue to be a much anticipated re-build in my book.
Cheers
Harvy
I agree! :good2:
All morning and into the after on these two.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04898.jpg~original)
Can't spray paint again today. 5* outside.
Went thru the foot pegs and the speedo today. The pegs are kinda rusty inside. I cleaned them good with paint thinner. Sanded the chrome and the painted parts then cleaned them again with alcohol. I have some Permatex rust treatment. It's a etching primer/ rust killer. I sprayed the rust and then painted the red. Later they'll get the metalcast on the chrome. The rear pegs are done to but there's nothing to paint.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04899.jpg~original)
Took the speedo apart and cleaned it good but the worm gear is held into the housing with, what looks like a roll pin pressed in to a blind hole. I wont bother with it now, it seem ok. I cleaned the cable with paint thinner and made something to wipe out the cable jacket.
I painted the motor mount standoffs and the motor / exhaust mount.
I went out in the shop and gathered up the rest of the parts. Not much stuff left. I'll be doing the oil cooler next. That's the last big thing that needs to be done.
Painting the oil cooler? Doesn't sound like a good idea. An added layer will slow the heat transfer. Black is the best color to radiate heat as well. Painting it red is probably not the thing to do. Sorry to rain on your parade.
Joe,
Not to criticize, your craftsmenship is apparent in the quality of your work and dedication. However, that's a LOT of red. Are you considering some alternate color or a striping/decal scheme to contrast with all that red? I'm trying to picture the finished product in my mind, but it's just this huge ball of red blending together. I'm no expert on esthetics, but that's a lot of red!
The Monkey must be green with envy.
I gut ya scratch'n your head hah. "What the hell is he do'n!"
I want the whole thing RED. I'm sure that the different shades of red will break it up enough that it won't be a solid ball of red. I want to do something for decals though.
From the benining, I have planned on this decal. I will have this on the bike.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/KGrHqNHJCsE-nMJ454BBPuQRJLTL60_12.jpg~original)
On the sides I haven't made up my mind but I'm thinking of having a member here, that makes decals to make me one that says "CHERRY BOMB" just as the "Yamaha" would look and put that on the tank. Maybe the old Cherry bomb sticker on the side panels. After I get it done I see what it needs.
I like this one to;
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/KGrHqVlUE1F2WIDBuBNcveTbr6_3.jpg~original)
Simi_ed, I'm going to paint the frame and lines then I going to spray the cooling fins enough red so there not black. Kind off just a dusting. I could touch the edges of the fins with red using an sponge.
If you're spraying the fins, that's the problem. Maybe do the sponge thing on the leading edges, but no more. Unless you're going to a much larger cooler, or making a showbike that you're not going to ride.
Oil coolers are nasty critters. You hold them like a dead rat mostly.
Cleaned, sanded and cleaned again.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04922.jpg~original)
It red, I don't know why it looks orange. I painted as much as I dare to. I took a sponge
and dabbed it on the fins. Good enough! Not much I could do with it. Dabbing the springs
over the oil lines make a nice effect.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04924.jpg~original)
I painted these thingys
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04923.jpg~original)
I did the repair on the lower case blind plug cover today. I made the outer form months ago when I was stripping the engine. The paint is pretty much cured and in a nice warm spot. I made the form out of a can and scribed the profile of the case as it is around the cover area.
This pic shows the damage and were I needed to build up.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04914.jpg~original)
I lucked out because the lower screw boss is still there. some material it scun off, probably 1/8" so I wanted to get some epoxy on top of that too. Next pics show the fit of the can. Its pretty good.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04918.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04917.jpg~original)
I oppted to use play do for my backing form.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04915.jpg~original)
There's with the can mounted.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04919.jpg~original)
Took some wax paper and rolled it up for the screw hole. After I put it in it unrolled and expanded. I took a small wood dowel and pushed that into the center.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04920.jpg~original)
And here it is potted with j b weld. If I did this with the engine in the bike, I would have done it completely different using the 2 part puddy.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04921.jpg~original)
One thing that totally escaped me at the time was putting a mold release on the can. The can is coated with a plastic that I can heat and get it to release. Maybe! :dash2:
Joe, I think you pretty much nailed the cooler painting! Maybe a touch more than I'd do, but the springs do give a look. Good job!
Ed
Thanks Ed. If ya look at it from a few feet away, you kinda get an overall, red look to it, I guess.
Quote from: Joe Sull on January 24, 2014, 03:28:08 PM
Thanks Ed. If ya look at it from a few feet away, you kinda get an overall, red look to it, I guess.
Joe, I must say, I can't wait to see it all bolted back together. :good2:
It's tempting to start shipping parts to you to have them painted :biggrin:
Cheers
Ken
Those are kind words Ken, thanks. If there wasn't 5000 miles between us, I'd say send your parts on over.
I could use the work.
I talked to a friend of mine this morning. A friend I also work for in the winter clearing his fire roads. Generally, cutting back and burning. He got a burning permit for one month. The last couple of years, this work has started getting lean on account of it's no longer politically correct to open burn. We were always able to get burning permits for the entire winter but now we have to chase people down, corner them and shame them into writing out a permit. And here's why...
"Well to do" city people come here to retire early and have nothing to do but work on there town politics. Throw there weight around at town meetings and show us dump hillbillies the correct way to do things.
Ah.. Were was I..
I got my wiring harness done today. Stripped off the old tape and used the fancy new silicone tape. Seems to me, I've used it before. I can't remember when. It's hard to do at first and then you start gaining. Red, of coarse!
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04947.jpg~original)
Ran in to a few splices were 2 wires go to 1. with tape over the splice. At first thought was to leave good enough alone, I decided to take a look and see how they made the splice.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04946.jpg~original)
They crimp them together. I wanted to make sure that they didn't just twist them up.
Cheers! :hi:
Believe me, with the prices over here, i would save a fortune shipping them 5000 miles for paint. :biggrin:
You won't even know what my fairing ended up on.... :dash2:
But moditus dosn't care about cost :good2:
My quess is that you are going for some red bolts as well? :good2:
http://www.pro-bolt.com/alloy-engine-kit-yamaha-fj1100-1200-red.html#.UuUCrrTKxaQ (http://www.pro-bolt.com/alloy-engine-kit-yamaha-fj1100-1200-red.html#.UuUCrrTKxaQ)
Hey Keand3, Those are nice. Unfortunately, I will be using the poorboy version. Red paint! :cray:
Those bolts would look excellent on a brushed aluminum motor.
I got my repair to the blind plug cover completed. The outter form (can) almost fell off, thank you! The ridges on the can working with the way I scribed the bottom, held it in some. The sides pealed away and with a little wiggling, it came off slick-as-use-please.
I sanded the flange area and got a good match to the cover and sanded the sides so it would take paint.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04948.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04949.jpg~original)
I still have some touch ups to do. I'll probably use some silicone for a gasket cause there is some waviness were the cove matches up. The red paint seems to show orange when it's wet under light.
Those are nice bolts but pro-bolt ain`t cheap..
The poorboy version is often just as good :good2:
Keep those red pictures coming, Thank you :good2:
Cheers
Ken
ALUMINUM bolts? Uh, no thanks!
That sounds about as bad as a 520 chain conversion on an FJ, or aluminum sprockets....
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on January 26, 2014, 10:12:03 PM
ALUMINUM bolts? Uh, no thanks!
That sounds about as bad as a 520 chain conversion on an FJ, or aluminum sprockets....
I agree, aluminum is not my prefered choice either :good2:
The link was suppose to linkt to the SS bolts :good:
Ken
Red pics? I got red pics today! :bye2: Let me go get'm.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04963.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04962.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04961.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04960.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04959.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04956.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04955.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04953.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04952.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04951.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04958.jpg~original)
Vinyl and fabric red. :dance2:
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04965.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04954.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04964.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04957.jpg~original)
It was 37* when I got up this morning and just warm enough to run in and out and get all this stuff painted.
It's going to rain today but if it holds off I will clearcoat a few things.
I got the clearcoating done on the metalcast parts and painted the down tubes and collector.
I primed with the VHT flameproof 3 weeks ago and baked them on a wood stove.The pipes got
scratched up good doing that.
My can of Vht red seemed color weak. 3 coats is marginal coverage. The 3rd coat,
had to do spots to make it look even. I could spring for another can or, What I want and
can't afford is snake wrap, Exhaust wrap, or I can leave it the way it is.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04966.jpg~original)
I guess the red matches the vinyl and fabric red. It looks a little fluorescent, probably
cause of the white underneath.
The snake wrap.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/KGrHqYOKo8FHlQ21FfBSBoNfygQ60_57.jpg~original)
The old exhaust will look like crap no mater what I do.
Cheers Joe :hi:
You can buy red header/exhaust wrap as well...
A11an0n, I see that on ebay. Thanks for the heads up.
It's taken 3 months and 15 days to turn my bike into a basket case but I did it. :mail1:
These are the last parts to get metalcast. I've gone thru everything. It seemed like it would never end.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04975.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04976.jpg~original)
The black on the levers was the hardest thing to take off. I had to use the buzz grinder
with a 120 sanding disc to remove it. Once I got under it, I hand sanded with 100. As you can see,
Theres still a little black left on there but it will not show when it's assembled. I'll be clearcoating these to
make them more durable.
I'll be painting the body this week coming. It's just a matter of working out a time with my son to
spray it and I'll be using the left over hot rod red. I got a 1/2 quart left. If It's to thin I'll spray it again in the summer.
Quote from: Joe Sull on February 01, 2014, 12:37:45 PM
I'll be painting the body this week coming. It's just a matter of working out a time with my son to
spray it and I'll be using the left over hot rod red. I got a 1/2 quart left. If It's to thin I'll spray it again in the summer.
So your saying you won't run out of red? And that you might be resparing red again in summer?
Damn dude, you really do take it all the way! :good2:
It looks really good! I am anticipating a lot more pictures in the near future...
You might have to do two red bikes, The Red Power Ranger might need one too... As a backup for his Ambulance of course... (nothing can replace that one) :rofl2:
If a red bike is faster, This is going to be like putting a big bore kit in it!
I'll assemble the wheels tomorrow and post some pics :bye:
Joe, That is a mind-boggling amount of sick-as-shit.
:good2: :good2: :good2: :good2: :good2: :good2: :good2: :good2: :good2: :good2: :good2:
Thanks Cat, I'm trying to think out of the box. I'm sure it's been thought of before but I haven't come across it. I did see one pic of a show bike harley with a hot rod red and chrome engine. It wasn't the same shade of hot rod red though.
I started moving bike parts out to the shop today. cleaned up the benches to lay out hardware. My son in law helped me haul the engine out and put it right on the floor, dead center. It should be easier to mount the frame and swing arm.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04981.jpg~original)
I assembled the wheels. Front wheel.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04978.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04977.jpg~original)
Rear wheel.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04980.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04979.jpg~original)
My hub nut saftey clippy things are junk. I need new shiny ones. I'll paint the nuts after.
I was cleaning my chain and after, I was looking at the o-rings. My master link was missing the retainer clip.
I guess I drive it 600 miles like that.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04982.jpg~original)
Quote from: Joe Sull on February 02, 2014, 02:10:53 PM
I was cleaning my chain and after, I was looking at the o-rings. My master link was missing the retainer clip.
I guess I drive it 600 miles like that.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04982.jpg~original)
That was a disaster avoided. :empathy:
A chain coming off while riding has been shown to be extremely expensive.
Fred
Ya Fred, Gave me a queezy feel'n like stepping onto a two story roof from a ladder :bad:
It must get easier after you do this 2 or 3 times.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04988.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04990.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04991.jpg~original)
I'm sure that I did some thing wrong.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04992.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04993.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04994.jpg~original)
That's still a LOT of RED...
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on February 04, 2014, 04:25:20 PM
That's still a LOT of RED...
No worries, the engine cylinder block and head won't stay red for long.....
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/_57.jpg~original)
The stuffs suppose to be good to 500 deg. I think it will chip off rather than change color.
We will see :music:
My money is changing colors first then chipping. :drinks: "good to", "up to".... yea....... :bomb: But nice work. :good2:
George
I'll just keep buying cans of paint and prove you all wrong. How do ya like them apples :crazy:
Quote from: Joe Sull on February 04, 2014, 06:28:58 PM
I'll just keep buying cans of paint and prove you all wrong. How do ya like them apples :crazy:
I will take my apples red and in an warm apple pie. :lol: With one scoop of vanilla ice cream. Don't take anything here to seriously Joe :drinks:
George
All those parts look very nice. Can't wait to see the finished bike. Any plans for red LED accent lights? Also how about some technical data on that helmet and suit in your picture. Working depths. Mixed gas? Chamber time? Dave
Quote from: TexasDave on February 05, 2014, 12:30:15 AM
Any plans for red LED accent lights?=
A little bling aint a bad idea Dave. No red or blue lights in this state.
That pic was taken by my farther, when he was alive. We were working under a resturant pilewrapping about 80 miles from my parents home and they showed up when I was coming up for lunch.
The hat was a superlite 27 and my drysuit, at the time was a typhoon, apron entry. We usually dive the superlite 17 and hot water. I buy a 7mm wetsuit and plum it up for hotwater. 105 degree water, 2 gallons a minute.
I haven't seen a chamber since I was down the gulf in 89. Most of my work "inland" is heavy construction, Piledriving. We do a lot of work on dams and powerplants. Most of the work is in 60 feet or less. We hardly ever do repeditive dives. When we get something deep, we just get more divers and do non-decompression dives. Chambers cost a lot to have on site, like $700 a day. The outfits I work for, have to stay away from costs like that.
This has been the driest winter for me. I usually get at least one good job. Nothing yet! You gotta to have something to fall back on. I dig clams and work in the woods to get by. I think I'll be bussy this spring. Need to get this bike together.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04995.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04999.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04996.jpg~original)
I thought the starter housing mounted closer to the upper case. Is that right?
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04997.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05000.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04998.jpg~original)
Stopped shortof getting the front wheel on today. Forgot to paint one of the anti dive blocks
on a fork tube.
completely bonkers rebuild with excellent attention to detail. looking forward to seeing the end result. :good2:
making me want to strip my bike down again. :biggrin:
I think that a fellow member would say that is very TJ.... But I am not naming names.... Just saying... I can't wait to see the finished product...
Yeah...I'm diggin' this build and that candy red/orange is starting to grow on me!
I know personally how much effort it takes to remove each and every nut, bolt, wire, o-ring, washer, gasket, brake line, bearing, frame member, axle, bulb and clamp...then, in turn, examine each one of those to determine its condition...then make a decision on each and every one: Should it be replaced? Does it look the way I want it to? Will it hold up when I need it most? Should I paint it, sand it, clear coat, powder coat it or leave it alone? It's a grueling process that is only tolerable because it's tempered with the excitement of having it done right...and knowing that your life may depend on a single bolt...and the want to keep looking back at the finished product in the parking lot as you walk into a restaurant...where you inevitably pick a booth near a window where you can keep your eye on it.
Keep up the fine workmanship and the posts. This one will be a real treat to see finished!
Cap'n Ron. . .
I think even Riddick's mom would say: "That's a LOT of RED!"
:-)
Quote from: yampug on February 05, 2014, 05:53:38 PM
making me want to strip my bike down again. :biggrin:
Quote from: FJmonkey on February 05, 2014, 09:44:56 PM
I can't wait to see the finished product...
Quote from: Capn Ron on February 05, 2014, 10:03:43 PM
Yeah...I'm diggin' this build
Thanks for the kind reviews guys, except the hooligan who keeps bring'n Chronicles of Riddick's
mother into it.
Mrs. R loves red! She told me herself "You keep what you kill" :biggrin:
I got the anti dive block painted last night and assembled the front wheel.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05004.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05005.jpg~original)
I got her back on the kick stand. I'm pulling that stupid stand switch like a bad tooth.
I drop kicked it across the dooryard.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05002.jpg~original)
Painted the crown nut and got that on. The clipons make it look like a bike again.
I want to try to squeeze that 1" lower out of the fork tubes. I can go another 3/8"
till it starts getting into the taper.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05003.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05001.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05007.jpg~original)
The paint for the body is on it's way. I went back to my original thought and it lines up better
with my cherry bomb theme- firehorn red pearl. It should be here the 9th.
Joe, you gotta know I'm gonna ask this: Why not replace those oem rubber lines?
You can get some nice ss lines with a red sheath and banjo fittings...kill 2 birds with one stone...
I'd love to be able to do some stuff like that but I can't afford nothing right now. I need jets, a battery, master link and a seat cover. My wife and I save all summer for the scratch to pay the bill thru the winter. It's the way life is around here. The tourist go home, commercial fishing is done till May and my diving work has been the slowest I've ever seen it. I've spent $150 so far on this project.
My son is buying this quart of paint that's coming in for me. He happens to fish thru the winter. There is a handfull of boats that go out past the 12 mile limit this time of year and his sternmans site does. They go out 35 miles in 900 ft of water, weather permitting.
I could get a call tomorrow to start diving 7- 12's but most likely, it won't be until spring. I'll probably end up helping him out then. Getting this bike was kind of on a whim. I traded a rifle for it cause I need projects like this for the winter except I was unprepared, so far as money goes. Next year I'll put something aside so I won't have to skimp so bad. :cray: It has served it's purpose though- I've been entertained!
And a big thank you for keeping us entertained. Can't wait to see the finished bike! :good2: Dave
I had some more plastic to paint and I will show the steps I took.
They tell you to use the adhesive promoter after cleaning. I washed all my parts with soap and water
and ended with using alchol. Within 5 mins. after the adhesive promoter comes the ground coat, metallic silver, 10 mins. .
Two coats of metalcast 10 mins. each. It was 25* today but I just step outside and spray real quick.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05009.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05008.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05011.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05012.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05010.jpg~original)
I got the tail section, fairing frame and the rear fender on then I got a few more things on the
handle bars. Those seat lock things will stay black. I went thru enough taking those apart cleaning
and greasing them.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05014.jpg~original)
I got all the brake pad in too.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05018.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05013.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05017.jpg~original)
I got the right controller on.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05015.jpg~original)
Three dimes and some jb weld took care of the old crusty sight glass, cluch MC. I didn't clean the oil
out of the oring slot so maybe I'll be able to remove it to install a new glass.
Tomorrow I'll be moving on to the wiring.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05016.jpg~original)
I have the left hand controller painted up and re taped the wires.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05019.jpg~original)
The wiring harness is in place but it's slow going even with the routing diagram.
The oil coolers in.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05022.jpg~original)
got the coils, main switch and horn in and connected.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05020.jpg~original)
Lower rear fender. Trying to sort out what the harness does in that area. I'm gonna put the battery box in
to help with that.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05021.jpg~original)
Cheers! :hi:
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05027.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05024.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05025.jpg~original)
THIS Is insane! The routing drawing barely help in this area
I need pics. I didn't take near enough pics to get me thru this. When I re taped, it took
out the natural kinks that were in the harness. The starter solenoid wants to sit at a
right angle to the slots in the battery box that it's suppose to slip into.
I can't tell if the other wires coming of the engine go beside the box or underneath it.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05028.jpg~original)
I do some searching and try again tomorrow.
:gamer:Paint came in :gamer:
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05029.jpg~original)
When the snow and ice finally melts and you get this out on the road, you'd better behave.
There will be no way to hide this red/red/red monster :-)
Quote from: Arnie on February 09, 2014, 07:25:58 PM
When the snow and ice finally melts and you get this out on the road, you'd better behave.
There will be no way to hide this red/red/red monster :-)
No need to wait, the colour of that alone will melt the snow as it goes.
Yep, that's been proved hasn't it? The cops love a collar feel of those who are driving red vehicles.
Mind you if I were the law I'd be drawn to those black rat bikes that seem to delight in advertising that this machine will have numerous defective parts and is no way road worthy.
Andy
Re-attaching the wiring harness can be a frustrating task. The only way I managed to get mine back on was to constantly look at my other two FJ's to determine which way everything went. Keep at it and go slow. It will all come together. Nice project by the way. I am always inspired by people doing something different.
:rofl: You guys are way to funny!
More pics :blum1:
I got the exhaust on
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05030.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05031.jpg~original)
If I put a cooked Maine lobster up next to the down pipe it would blend right in.
I have a new can of the fireproof red and I'll touch up installed. It drys like and egg shell
before it's cured. There's 2primer coats and 3 color coats on them now. You bump it and it
chips off, down into the primer.
I pop riveted the cans on this morning
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05032.jpg~original)
I got the wiring squared away thanks to my new best friend, Not at Lib. Your the man! :gamer:
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05033.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05034.jpg~original)
Notice the shorted kick stand cutout switch. I thought I saw the death quiver when I cut the
connector off.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05033.jpg~original)
Quote from: Joe Sull on February 11, 2014, 04:06:32 AM
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05033.jpg~original)
Joe, you know you can get bright red zip ties.
Noel
I suspect this entire rebuild is being done in Kramer's apartment...
Seinfeld: Jerry & Kramer - Chicken Roaster Sign [HQ] (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q40fKsRsHFU#)
Cap'n Ron. . .
I think that episode was the funnies one they made Ron. Hilarious!
He goes and sneaks fried chicken then gets caught. Very funny.
I will be changing those ties out. You notice I didn't cut the ends off. :drinks:
I meant to post last night but had problems with internet service. It seem to be working
better this morning. I you don't hear from me, you know why. There sending me new filters
for the phone jack but I think the cold is doing it outside.
Them black hoses and tubing are drawing unwanted attention as well. Maybe some vinyl/plastic paint to RED them up...
Quote from: Joe Sull on February 11, 2014, 04:06:32 AM
I got the wiring squared away thanks to my new best friend, Not at Lib. Your the man! :gamer:
Good to know the pics were of some use! You're almost there... :good:
I got the fuses in
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05040.jpg~original)
You guys didn't see that one coming. Cherry bombs have green fuses.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05039.jpg~original)
I put the carbs together with the same jets. They've been apart for to long.
I'll change the jets later and orings later. The problem I see is the float
seal in two carbs got crushed a little. The float needles may hang up.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05044.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05042.jpg~original)
I got all the cables in and feel good. Hand grips look crappie but on my list is a
pair of red ones that jc wittney sells for $20.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05041.jpg~original)
The front directionals are mangled but they have to do for now.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05043.jpg~original)
That all I can do for now. I've caught up with my wallet. Next thing is the
body paint. My son tore down his harley to paint the frame. I talked to him
this morning and he'll be ready for my paint soon. Next couple of days are
going to be low 30's overnight so it will be easier to heat his shop. I'm
hoping that we can get it done friday.
Cheers Joe :hi:
The green carbs are fn great! Can't wait to see finished bike (popcorn)
vision fruition
Make sure those 4 small choke vent hoses and the 2 larger bowl vent hoses are long enough so if you do get some gas leaking from your float needle o rings, you don't damage that paint.
Quote from: Capn Ron on February 11, 2014, 05:34:46 AM
I suspect this entire rebuild is being done in Kramer's apartment...
Seinfeld: Jerry & Kramer - Chicken Roaster Sign [HQ] (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q40fKsRsHFU#)
Cap'n Ron. . .
My rods and cones.....great episode. My favorite part (sorry for getting off topic).
Broccoli...Vile Weed! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X1snxhEdchY#)
The only episode that I thought was as funny was the one were Kramer found Merv Griffens studio set in the dumpster and set it up in his apartment :rofl2:
Quote from: Joe Sull on February 12, 2014, 06:21:48 PM
The only episode that I thought was as funny was the one were Kramer found Merv Griffens studio set in the dumpster and set it up in his apartment :rofl2:
Yup. New format Jerry, scandals and animals!!!
Quote from: Joe Sull on February 12, 2014, 12:50:44 PM
I got the fuses in
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05040.jpg~original)
You guys didn't see that one coming. Cherry bombs have green fuses.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05039.jpg~original)
Awesome turn Joe... you might make the seat and tail green to enhance the effect, but maybe the point is CB has a short fuse?
Frank
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 12, 2014, 05:04:34 PM
Make sure those 4 small choke vent hoses and the 2 larger bowl vent hoses are long enough so if you do get some gas leaking from your float needle o rings, you don't damage that paint.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05045.jpg~original)
I took the carbs back off again Pat because I was pretty sure that the 4 small hoses were the bowl vents which are oring free, and the other white "t" vents were to just vent the body or something.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05046.jpg~original)
Those white "t"s orings were bad and without the orings theres no fit at all.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05047.jpg~original)
I went down the local hardware with a carb and the "t"s (fuel inlet t and the white vent t). I found a inch oring that seems to be good and replaced them all.
I had some hose around and replaced them all longer to get fuel down over. There long enough to see if the fuels going to leak right away. It's not the best spot but the only one I could see.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05048.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05049.jpg~original)
I can tie them back to the centerstand mount and Cut them shorter.
Thanks Flint for the good words. That is Metalcast green on the carbs. I used the base coat on them first. I don't think the carbs show with the side covers on, maybe a little. I got the quart of firehorn red and all the body parts are going to catch it. It should be completely red except for those nasty black cables.
Guess you could be the fuse too: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Green-motorcycle-racing-leather-One-piece-suit-/130777986032 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Green-motorcycle-racing-leather-One-piece-suit-/130777986032)
Love this project!
Dad_FJ, Oh man, ha, This is a whole different world that I live in here.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/gr_home_pg2.jpg~original)
If I wore that suit, I'd get in a fight every time I went to the store.
I need the two piece.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/show_image_in_imgtag.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/2.jpg~original)
I can get away with a red bike cause theres hardly any on the island. But the suit?
If it says Grungen or viking on it, I'm good
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/eat-fish-sticker_26.jpg~original)
Quote from: Joe Sull on February 13, 2014, 12:21:56 PM
If it says Grungen or viking on it, I'm good
Anything related to Viking is good!! :good2: Hmm
.. It's start to make sense why all this red... :rofl:
You must have done some fishing at one time or another in the north atlantic?
Quote from: Joe Sull on February 14, 2014, 06:37:15 PM
You must have done some fishing at one time or another in the north atlantic?
I'm afraid i haven't. But my grandfather was a sailor by trade and went wishing all over. Remember it quite well, from when i was younger, about alt those crazy stories from out at sea.
Norway is a large fishing nation, and i sure would like to try. Its extremely hard labor so you would have to be passionate to do it i think.
Have been to the north atlantic but not for fishing :-)
But being a descendent of Vinings, the color red is familiar i guess :rofl:
Yesterday I got the brakes and the clutch pumped up, put and oil filter in. Today I put a gallon of oil in her and cranked it over without plugs. Squirted some 3in1 into the cylinders first. I cranked 4 times between 5-7 seconds each hoping that will get some oil up into the heads.
I'm thinking of how to rig a bottle of fuel and maybe get it to start.
I just got finished outside. Got the bike running and it sounds good like it did. The carbs are a problem that tapping on the bowls does'nt cure. Got one stopped flowing over by tapping and another started. Had a little stream of gas in the shop. I almost got it warmed up.
Guess I need float seals.
Quote from: Joe Sull on February 15, 2014, 11:17:39 AM
I just got finished outside. Got the bike running and it sounds good like it did. The carbs are a problem that tapping on the bowls does'nt cure. Got one stopped flowing over by tapping and another started. Had a little stream of gas in the shop. I almost got it warmed up.
Guess I need float seals.
Joe,
Ok, you have to take the carb float bowls back off and clean the needle float seats and needle tips, and check or replace the O-rings. With all the time the bike has been un-used this isn't too big an ask.
Congratulations on getting it running.
When I cleaned the needle seats the first time. I had to clamp on them with plyers to get them out, I used Pats method and stuck the shank of a drill in the seat and clamped against that. The seat measured .209 inside. The shank measured .207
At least 2 of them were out of round. I looked at the needles with a glass and they look ok, but I put the seats back in the way the were.
Today I'll take them out and work them back round best I can and polish the inside then try to find some orings that will work.
Randy, rpmracingca.com, has the right O-rings.
IIRC when Dr. David Raforth put together the carb cap screw and O-ring kit (many years ago) these properly sized O-rings were a bit difficult to obtain.
I think they are 9mmOD x 2mm Xsection, but I could be very wrong.
Arnie
I got it :biggrin: It took a couple of hours to work the seats round again. I cut q-tips in half, mounted them in a high speed drill, I dipped them in dremmel polishing compound and polished the insides of the seats. I made sure the needles worked smooth. Mounted them and put the gas to them. No leaking at all! NO oil leaks either.
It running lean for sure. I assembled the carbs like the tutorial, 2 1/2 turns out on the needle jet. I should open that up to 4 ?
I bench sync'd them, Ill be making one of those $5 sync tools. It is running off choke but it took a while. I won't be running the intake box anymore, probably get some cheap singles so I need all the gas I can get. I have the 37.5 jets in till I can change them out. The gas I used came out of my generator and didn't look that good be the best thing is it didn't leak.
I got a video and uploaded to utube.
running fj (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vV_mvuebg2U#)
She warmed up and it baked some paint. The exhaust turned darker and I like the color. I can see where it needs some extra paint. I got a full can to do that. I'm happy, It's running.
Quote from: Arnie on February 16, 2014, 07:50:47 AM
IIRC when Dr. David Raforth put together the carb cap screw and O-ring kit (many years ago) these properly sized O-rings were a bit difficult to obtain.
I think they are 9mmOD x 2mm Xsection, but I could be very wrong.
And here's what he says about them.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1391.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1391.0)
Thanks Andyb for correcting my failing memory on the sizing. :-)
Quote from: andyb on February 16, 2014, 01:45:07 PM
Quote from: Arnie on February 16, 2014, 07:50:47 AM
IIRC when Dr. David Raforth put together the carb cap screw and O-ring kit (many years ago) these properly sized O-rings were a bit difficult to obtain.
I think they are 9mmOD x 2mm Xsection, but I could be very wrong.
And here's what he says about them.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1391.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1391.0)
Here's the ones I bought http://www.oringsandmore.com/viton-oring-7-1-x-1-6mm-price-for-25-pcs/ (http://www.oringsandmore.com/viton-oring-7-1-x-1-6mm-price-for-25-pcs/) I could probably find 4 to send you :drinks:
George
Still waiting for my paint job. I had time to get the bottom of the tank prep'd. Wasn't going to bother with the bottom because of trying to reglue the heat shield back on but I guess I'll try contact cement. I got my petcock all ready. Epoxyed the elbow in and cleaned the inside. Everything looks good. I can pull a slight amount of air by causing a suction on the vacumm tube but very little. I wired it up and ready to bolt in.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05065.jpg~original)
Just waiting for my son to get his bike painted. (popcorn)
Quote from: Joe Sull on February 20, 2014, 03:58:08 PM
Still waiting for my paint job. I had time to get the bottom of the tank prep'd. Wasn't going to bother with the bottom because of trying to reglue the heat shield back on but I guess I'll try contact cement. I got my petcock all ready.
Man, you really do go all the way out, don't you? Doing red underneath the tank as well!?! Cudos to you man, cudos.... :good:
I to need to reglue my heatsheild... After my fuel leak had been laying a couple of days I guess the fumes must have dissolved the old clue.. Everything could just peel off...
I will not be painting it blue underneath though :biggrin:
Cheers
Ken
Quote from: keand3 on February 21, 2014, 12:22:40 PM
I will not be painting it blue underneath though :biggrin:
Leaving it red as a tribute to Joe's bike, then?
Quote from: keand3 on February 21, 2014, 12:22:40 PM
Quote from: Joe Sull on February 20, 2014, 03:58:08 PM
I will not be painting it blue underneath though :biggrin:
Leaving it red as a tribute to Joe's bike, then?
Yes! It's worth it! :yahoo: :rofl:
You can see my bike was red in the begining. Now it's red all over, more than anywhere else. :biggrin: Red is'nt really my favorite color it's just that theres so much beauty in the engine area and it was covered with black. I came very close to doing the whole thing with the metalcast green and the body candy apple green.
I no one thing though - I gotta keep you guys guess'n :lol:
Quote from: Joe Sull on February 21, 2014, 01:25:01 PM
I no one thing though - I gotta keep you guys guess'n :lol:
+1 :good:
Quote from: Joe Sull on January 13, 2014, 04:14:42 PM
Three hours masking
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04868.jpg~original)
Ready for clearcoat tomorrow.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04869.jpg~original)
How did you prep the wheels Joe? I'm thinking of doing something similar with mine after the Australian Rally. Was thinking of powdercoating, but I'm thinking now either the Metalcast or the VHT Anodized spray paint in Candy Blue might be worth a go. Are you happy with your results? Looks great to me,
Regards
Ray
Quote from: X-Ray on February 24, 2014, 12:13:13 AM
How did you prep the wheels Joe? I'm thinking of doing something similar with mine after the Australian Rally. Was thinking of powdercoating, but I'm thinking now either the Metalcast or the VHT Anodized spray paint in Candy Blue might be worth a go. Are you happy with your results? Looks great to me,
Regards
Ray
I'm a big fan of this product Ray. It's a polyurethane paint. Doesn't chip. I painted my underslung caliper with it a couple of years ago and that gets a lot of crap bouncing off it being so low. You can see tiny dents where stones have hit but no chips. I think it comes in a good range of colours too, or, it is available in clear to protect any paint or colour you like.
This particular colour is also a perfect match for the original frame silver. Good for the down tubes at the front that seem to get a lot of chips.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3733/12747101834_631742080c_c.jpg)
I guess that's why it's wheel paint.
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on February 24, 2014, 08:27:55 AM
Quote from: X-Ray on February 24, 2014, 12:13:13 AM
How did you prep the wheels Joe? I'm thinking of doing something similar with mine after the Australian Rally. Was thinking of powdercoating, but I'm thinking now either the Metalcast or the VHT Anodized spray paint in Candy Blue might be worth a go. Are you happy with your results? Looks great to me,
Regards
Ray
I'm a big fan of this product Ray. It's a polyurethane paint. Doesn't chip. I painted my underslung caliper with it a couple of years ago and that gets a lot of crap bouncing off it being so low. You can see tiny dents where stones have hit but no chips. I think it comes in a good range of colours too, or, it is available in clear to protect any paint or colour you like.
This particular colour is also a perfect match for the original frame silver. Good for the down tubes at the front that seem to get a lot of chips.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3733/12747101834_631742080c_c.jpg)
I guess that's why it's wheel paint.
Noel
After keeping an eye out for that Ford Argent Silver for sometime now, yesterday at a new Autozone store there it was on the shelf ! So I bought a can for some touch up.
Another product to consider is ACF-50. It is popular with the FJ riders across the pond. I haven't tried the product so I am not of any help there. If you live in a high humidity or coastal area / wet area it might be something to consider. The link below is a spec sheet. Type in ACF-50 in your search engine to locate retailers.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pdf/ACF-50-BROCHURE.pdf (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pdf/ACF-50-BROCHURE.pdf)
George
Ray, Lot of work buddy. I have so many hours into those rims, I'm thinking of having them cremated with me. I started by stripping them with aircraft remover. The paint just doesn't bubble up. It softens it to a point that a wire wheel will take it off. The wire wheels that chuck in a drill work for the open areas but I had to use some dremmel wire wheels to get the small spots. The trick with the little ones is not to use high speed. I was chucking them in my drill and that worked. My dremmel has one speed-on 13000 rpm and those little wheels won't take to much of that without shooting wire all over. My wife is still still pulling pieces of wire out of her feet from me tracking the in the house. :crazy:
After you get the paint off, The sanding starts. The dremmel sanding drums work best. I used my buzz grinder a lot with the #120 discs. I have a ace hardware attachment to mount them. I cut half the diameter off to knock down the rpm's and It fits better. I took off the cast lettering, you know, the tire size and that stuff. In the tiny corners, I used a dremmel stone that I buy for sharpening my chain saw. Then I hand sanded with #100, I finished with #220. I plan on going to #600 next winter and polishing them, I guess.
I'm happy with the way they look but time will tell if it's going to hold up. I coated them with a lot of clear coat. I gut 2 heavy, almost dripping coats on them. I probably should have done 3 or 4. Good luck! I'd say that I've got at least 50 hour into each one.
I got a little to post this week. Still waiting for my son to finish his project. He's got his Harley painted, assembled and getting the wiring back on. The top end is done and ready to be picked up. He's looking at finishing early next week.
My grand daughter made me a keychain. "Grampy, what color do you want it" Ah...Red?
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05102.jpg~original)
Got new uni-pod from RPM. Man, those thing look like they belong there. Very pleasing to the eye. "eye candy" is that right?
The little wire fuel line hose clamp tang thingys kind of interfere with the filter flange. I'll turn them around or replace them with something
more trustworthy.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05101.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05100.jpg~original)
Hung the seat on for giggles.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05107.jpg~original)
I installed the new master link and I wish that I had assembled it before hand. The clip doesn't look like other pics of a properly installed clip.
For the third time, I've tried to sink the clip into the groove and it doesn't seem like it's going in any further.
I saw a thread and pics of a safety wired clip and I'll do that when I find some proper st st wire.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05106.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05105.jpg~original)
Does the clip look right? It's a EK 530 SRO-z master link
Well, it's still cold as can be here. -2 this morning. It's going to warm a little this weekend and then drop again.
Hatefull :diablo:
Pretty sure you can get the UNI filters in RED too! :sarcastic:
Awesome job staying true to the theme
Quote from: fj1289 on March 05, 2014, 04:59:25 PM
Pretty sure you can get the UNI filters in RED too! :sarcastic:
Awesome job staying true to the theme
Yes. :mocking:
(http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu159/rktmanfj/FJ%20airboxectomy/Firewood096.jpg~original)
I'm gonna bleed out a chicken and blow smoke on it chanting "FJ1289 Not at Lib" :wacko2: and put a voodoo hex on you two.
:hang1: :hang1:
Make sure the rounded edge of the clip (one side will be rounded the other sharp) is against the chain side. Personally I have never really trusted master link clips and prefer to go with the 'peen on' style.
Thanks Allan, I'll take a look. Worked on carbs today.
Red red wiiiiinnneeee...... or something by UB40 :good2:
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05133.jpg~original)
Pushed the bike up front, on the pavement and it just melted the snow and dried it right off. :biggrin:
Saturated her with polymer. Put a sprayer nozzle on the bottle and she was dripping wet, then I wiped it down.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05135.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05137.jpg~original)
Rolled her back in the shop and put a fresh battery in, set up the fuel funnel and started it. Ran it till no more paint
smoked. she was pretty hot. The engine don't burn any smoke at all, I'm happy to say.
I used my fancy new home made sync tool and sync'd the carbs. The top end is very quiet, no tapping or noises of any kind.
She ready. I gotta get my stuff painted :sorry:
Behold!!!! The "FJucati" (pronounced 'fyooocati)!!!
If a stock-colors '86 is an ambulance, is this a fire truck?
Rossi
Is that how you say "Cherry Bomb" in French? Cause that what we got here.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05139.jpg~original)
...............................................CHERRY BOMB!....................................................
...............................................CHERRY BOMB!....................................................
...............................................CHERRY BOMB!....................................................
Quote from: Joe Sull on March 04, 2014, 12:36:56 PM
Does the clip look right? It's a EK 530 SRO-z master link
The side plate needs to be compressed a little more for the clip to drop in. I used master links till last year and to get the clip on I used a compression tool to set the side plate. Looks kind of like this:
(http://s7d9.scene7.com/is/image/CycleGear/web1006931?$SM$)
master link press tool (http://www.cyclegear.com/CycleGear/Accessories/Tools/Other-Tools/brand/STOCKTON-TOOL-COMPANY/Mini-Chain-Link-Press-Tool/p/36394_00000)
Thanks Monkey, nother tool I can't afford :lol: You buy a chain that uses clip style master links to get away from buying a swaging tool but you end up having to buy a tool to compress a clip master :wacko3:
It doesn't look completely down compared to some pics I've seen with the two inside edges of the clip touching and that would make the clip in a relaxed state. I'll try again!
You seem handy with tools, needle nose vise-grips will work in a pinch. Just make sure the jaw is on the pin on the back side and the other jaw is on the plate. This makes sure that only the plate you want to move is the one moving.
:gamer: Painting my bike tomorrow! :gamer:
Quote from: Joe Sull on March 13, 2014, 03:17:36 PM
:gamer: Painting my bike tomorrow! :gamer:
Can't wait to see the result! :good2:
Quote from: Joe Sull on March 13, 2014, 03:17:36 PM
:gamer: Painting my bike tomorrow! :gamer:
sweet, what color?
(popcorn)
Were painting all the body parts firehorn red pearl. It's T C Global's Restoration 1 stage. I wish they sold something a little brighter in with a pearl but it should be a close match to the metalcast red in the shade and it will brighten a lot in the sun with a burnt orange glow.
My son pretty good with a spray gun but the gun it self isn't to good. I'll probably have some sanding this summer. I'll get him to put a good 3 thick coats.
Are you going to color sand between coats? Hint: It will make your final sanding easier prior to your clear coat.
Are you planning on a urethane clear coat?
Quote from: Joe Sull on March 13, 2014, 04:27:00 PM
Were painting all the body parts firehorn red pearl. It's T C Global's Restoration 1 stage. I wish they sold something a little brighter in with a pearl but it should be a close match to the metalcast red in the shade and it will brighten a lot in the sun with a burnt orange glow.
My son pretty good with a spray gun but the gun it self isn't to good. I'll probably have some sanding this summer. I'll get him to put a good 3 thick coats.
I'm actually following your project with great anticipation :good2: can't wait!
Quote from: Dads_FJ on March 13, 2014, 08:59:58 PM
Quote from: Joe Sull on March 13, 2014, 04:27:00 PM
Were painting all the body parts firehorn red pearl. It's T C Global's Restoration 1 stage. I wish they sold something a little brighter in with a pearl but it should be a close match to the metalcast red in the shade and it will brighten a lot in the sun with a burnt orange glow.
My son pretty good with a spray gun but the gun it self isn't to good. I'll probably have some sanding this summer. I'll get him to put a good 3 thick coats.
I'm actually following your project with great anticipation :good2: can't wait!
Dads FJ, All I can say is it's going to be red, buddy. We'll let the parts hang overnight and I'll go get it tomorrow. I'll get some pics today though.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 13, 2014, 07:36:03 PM
Are you going to color sand between coats? Hint: It will make your final sanding easier prior to your clear coat.
Are you planning on a urethane clear coat?
No Pat, I don't have time to do a good job on it. My sons already getting busy and I've got just enough time to wet sand and buff it out. No clear cause I'm not sure I'll like the darker red. I gut that "Toxic Tomato Pearl" in my head and it's to late now.
Firehorn red pearl
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05149.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05150.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05153.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05151.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05152.jpg~original)
Got some fish eyes and a lot of orange peal but it's painted.
that's a lot of red .....
That a lot of run!
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/1897695_785353008160126_101728999_n.jpg~original)
We loaded up the side trying to get a fish eye out and the dam let go!
He sent this pic to me an hour after I got home
Oh, the rain :sorry:
I got my parts at 8 AM and finished at 2 PM. Put a gallon in it and drove it up front.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05156.jpg~original)
Now THATs a lot of red. Just what I wanted.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05160.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05158.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05161.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05159.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05157.jpg~original)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05162.jpg~original)
I will be working on the paint through the summer and putting in some new parts. I'll be posting
in the other boards cause this write up is done. :yahoo:
Indeed, that's alot of red... :shok:
Although i thought i might not be to fond of that much red, i find it rather nice!! :good2:
I love the way you have been true to you project and taken it all the way!
This thread has been an amusement to follow.. Please do more of opportunity arrives :good2:
Cheers
Ken
That's a lot of blood, did anyone live after that accident ? :lol: :lol:
George
You can always wet sand the black paint off the inside surface of the base of the windscreen and paint it red.
Dunno what to do about those black tires.... :unknown:
Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 16, 2014, 12:49:39 AM
You can always wet sand the black paint off the inside surface of the base of the windscreen and paint it red.
Dunno what to do about those black tires.... :unknown:
Solved:
(http://www.sportbikes.net/forums/attachments/general-sportbikes/106987d1165441116-colored-tires-blurace02.jpeg)
Cap'n Ron. . .]
I guess I need some tire and hose paint. The shield looks pretty nasty. I'll do something with it. Thanks guy's. :hi:
:good2: Congratulations on a job well done! Bike looks REDiculously good.
Thanks CatTomb. I wanted my bike to look different and I guess it does. Was hoping to put a few miles on it but it's 20* - blow'n 30 and the roads are crap..
That is a hell of a lot of red! I was skeptical, but you pulled it off. A job well done! Congratulations!
Derek
Quote from: Joe Sull on March 15, 2014, 02:06:25 PM
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05156.jpg~original)
Joe, what I want to know is, if you hit the automatic "redeye" correction on your camera, does the bike disappear from the photo?
Noel
Yes Noel. You'll have two tires and some cables left. Please don't hit the red eye :cray:
Joe,
congratulations on completing a monumental project.
Cherry Bomb looks Dynomite :good2:
now you need to do an all white bike then an all blue Bike in time for next 4th july parade.
Scott
Thanks Scott, This bikes gonna save me a lot of aggravation when the tourist come to the island this summer. I'll be ready. They bung up the roads going 25-30 mph in a 50 mph.
Theres only 2 roads leading here from the outside world. They start about 40 miles out and then about 20 miles out both roads converge into one.
If you have to get anywhere, on or off the island , you can't get there. You pass one and there 10 more in front of that one going slow as death.
It's hard to imagine how they got here in the first place. Questions come to mind; Did they drive all the way from New York at 30 mph? Have they ever seen a tree before? Do they just stop in the middle of the road anytime they want where they live.
It's gonna be awesome because I'll be king of the road. :crazy: Every time I pass one, I'll be thinking to my self "Who's the king" :blum1:
Quote from: Joe Sull on March 17, 2014, 04:24:37 PM
Thanks Scott, This bikes gonna save me a lot of aggravation when the tourist come to the island this summer. I'll be ready. They bung up the roads going 25-30 mph in a 50 mph.
Theres only 2 roads leading here from the outside world. They start about 40 miles out and then about 20 miles out both roads converge into one.
If you have to get anywhere, on or off the island , you can't get there. You pass one and there 10 more in front of that one going slow as death.
It's hard to imagine how they got here in the first place. Questions come to mind; Did they drive all the way from New York at 30 mph? Have they ever seen a tree before? Do they just stop in the middle of the road anytime they want where they live.
It's gonna be awesome because I'll be king of the road. :crazy: Every time I pass one, I'll be thinking to my self "Who's the king" :blum1:
Oh good. I`m glad ya don`t need a brake light.... I was a bit concerned they`d never see it! :sorry:
Yeah Joe, I feel your pain when its silly season. I live in a small town in south Florida where the population doubles from thanksgiving through Easter.Its not uncommon to see a Blue-hair in the left lane with the left signal on make an abrupt right turn. One of the Guys I work with lives in Maine, Rockport. he says the same thing as you regarding the summer tourists. he lives on Ratcliff Island. I think that's Mid Coast. He just bought the old Rocky Bay Brewery in Rockport so if you find yourself over that way stop in and have a pint.
Scott
Scott, your buddy lives just across Penobscot bay from me. It's only 15 miles by boat but 60 mile to drive. That tourist ground zero, right there. I feel for him. The Rockland Lobster festival? :hang1:
Hey, you feel the pain hah! You don't get the "Leaf Peepers" in October I bet. They'll slam on the brake to get a good foliage picture. (popcorn)
Snowbird season in Mesa Arizona, motor-home capital of the USA. The car, big, Canada plates, the passengers, Q-tips in the front seat, Q-balls in the back, doing 30/35 in a 45. I do not miss those days... :dash2: :dash2: :dash2:
Time well invested and showing. Nice job. (Speigler brake lines and banjo bolts come in red)
Quote from: BadBro on March 21, 2014, 05:32:25 PM
(Speigler brake lines and banjo bolts come in red)
I'll be looking into that this summer. Thanks