How do I remove the air box. Do I have to remove the carbs. The crank case vacuum tube is hanging and I cant get it back on. I cant get my fingers in there.
Where on this site can I find maintenance procedures. I did a search "air box removal" and found nothing.
Quote from: Joe Sull on October 12, 2013, 03:28:00 PM
How do I remove the air box. Do I have to remove the carbs. The crank case vacuum tube is hanging and I cant get it back on. I cant get my fingers in there.
Where on this site can I find maintenance procedures. I did a search "air box removal" and found nothing.
Hi Joe
I will try to help out if I can. First put the bike on the center stand and remove the seat, then if you look at the side of the air box you will see a 10mm bolt, below that you will see a 17mm bolt with a locking tab. There is one on the right and left side. On the top rear of the air box you will see a 10mm bolt.
Remove the 3, 10mm bolts from the air box.
Remove the 2 , 17mm bolts on each side of the rear sub-frame (the ones below the 10mm bolts on the air box side).
The rear sub frame will
"fall" or tilt down with the rear wheel on the ground.
Now you can unscrew the carb boots and unhook the crankcase hose.
The air box should now have enough room to wiggle out.
Now, just for information, this is why some convert to uni-filters. With that you have no more air box to contend with. If you keep the air that's fine, I seem to have the most trouble trying to re hook the crankcase ventilation hose, it is a pain.. It takes me a while but it will slip back on. (I have since modified my box). Maybe someone has a simple way?? In reinstalling the box, take some time and make sure the boots are sealed all the way around the each carb. Underneath is the hardest to feel/see.
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3ARPMPod&cat=39 (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3ARPMPod&cat=39)
Hope this gets you started :good2:
George
Everybody says those large bolts on the side are 17mm, but on mine they are 14mm.
I do like moveon says.
Put some weight on the back of the bike after the bolts are out and it will open enough to get the airbox out and in easier.
When it's time to put it back together, someone told me the trick of putting the elbow that comes out of the airbox and connect it to the breather hose not the airbox.
You have to be careful when you put the airbox back in that you get the airbox's rubber tubes around the carbs, and not let the rubber tubes get kinked on the bottom and squished against the carbs without going around them.
I use a wide putty knife and slip it down between the rubber tubes and the carbs to help the tubes slip down past the carbs so they seat properly.
To get the breather hose connected, make sure that when you're putting the airbox back in, that the breather hose and the elbow stay between carbs 2 and 3.
Then I use two large flat screwdrivers to maneuver the elbow into position and pop it back in the airbox.
After a couple tries you'll get it.
Yep, George nailed it.
If you want to keep the oem air box here's how to get that pesky crankcase hose re-attached.
Where the hose connects to the air box, there is a plastic snap in fitting....take that out and throw it away.
Go down to Ace, or your local hardware store, and get a threaded brass nipple sized for the vent hose.
Get 2 locking nuts, sized for the threads on the nipple, and 2 washers, and install one nut on the nipple with epoxy along with a washer which will seal against the outside bottom of the airbox...let it dry overnight ....
Now, with the airbox out, attach the nipple to the crankcase hose, use a hose clamp, when you put the airbox back in, just poke the threaded side of the nipple into the hole in the air box and now working from inside the airbox, install the second flat washer followed by the second locking nut. Snug tight on the second locking nut.
That oem snap in hose fitting was a pain, the threaded brass nipple is much easier to work with...
With today's e10 and e15 fuel blends, it's a good idea to get used to servicing your carbies yourself.
I too have converted over to UniPods...I don't miss that airbox one tiny bit...
Hope this helps. Pat
Quote from: Pat Conlon on October 12, 2013, 07:31:05 PM
Go down to Ace, or your local hardware store, and get a threaded brass nipple sized for the vent hose.
Great idea Pat. Should the nipple you speak of look like this?
(http://m4.sourcingmap.com/photo_new/20120104/g/ux_a12010400ux0414_ux_g03.jpg)
Thanks a lot guys. I tried to take the airbox off to clean then could'nt figure out how, without taking the carbs off and I was'nt even sure if that would do it. I still want to drive for a couple more days. Then I tried to reassemble an noticed that the tube was off the connector. It must have been off for a long time.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSA%20SA58%20PARA%20Elite/DSC04647.jpg)
I will get at it tomorrow. I was looking at my spark plugs and found them loose. Not even hand tight. Burning lean. I will be taking off the carbs but not yet.
By for now
Joe.
Quote from: Bminder on October 12, 2013, 07:06:29 PM
Everybody says those large bolts on the side are 17mm, but on mine they are 14mm.
I do like moveon says.
Put some weight on the back of the bike after the bolts are out and it will open enough to get the airbox out and in easier.
When it's time to put it back together, someone told me the trick of putting the elbow that comes out of the airbox and connect it to the breather hose not the airbox.
You have to be careful when you put the airbox back in that you get the airbox's rubber tubes around the carbs, and not let the rubber tubes get kinked on the bottom and squished against the carbs without going around them.
I use a wide putty knife and slip it down between the rubber tubes and the carbs to help the tubes slip down past the carbs so they seat properly.
To get the breather hose connected, make sure that when you're putting the airbox back in, that the breather hose and the elbow stay between carbs 2 and 3.
Then I use two large flat screwdrivers to maneuver the elbow into position and pop it back in the airbox.
After a couple tries you'll get it.
I am going out of memory (questionable...) :lol: on the bolt size. Could very well be 14mm. I will check next time I am out in the shop.
George
Just checked it and the memory is still intact :yahoo: :yahoo: 17mm socket or wrench.
George
Jesus!! you guys just rolled over and gave the new guy the answers out right and free. What happened to "You have to remove the engine" and "you have to remove the entire rear end"??? We missed out on some fun guys...
Anyway, welcome to the club, as you can see we are a helpful group and solve nearly every problem our members have. Happy to have one more on board....
Quote from: movenon on October 12, 2013, 09:18:48 PM
Quote from: Bminder on October 12, 2013, 07:06:29 PM
Everybody says those large bolts on the side are 17mm, but on mine they are 14mm.
I am going out of memory (questionable...) :lol: on the bolt size. Could very well be 14mm. I will check next time I am out in the shop.
George
Well George, you're not the first person who's told me they are 17mm, and I think the Clymer manual even says they are 17mm, but for some reason, mine are 14mm.
So my bike is probably just a little faster because of lighter bolts. :rofl:
Quote from: Bminder on October 12, 2013, 09:50:55 PM
Quote from: movenon on October 12, 2013, 09:18:48 PM
Quote from: Bminder on October 12, 2013, 07:06:29 PM
Everybody says those large bolts on the side are 17mm, but on mine they are 14mm.
I am going out of memory (questionable...) :lol: on the bolt size. Could very well be 14mm. I will check next time I am out in the shop.
George
Well George, you're not the first person who's told me they are 17mm, and I think the Clymer manual even says they are 17mm, but for some reason, mine are 14mm.
So my bike is probably just a little faster because of lighter bolts. :rofl:
With all the wind over there you don't need to be lighter :lol: :lol:
George
Quote from: movenon on October 12, 2013, 09:59:51 PM
With all the wind over there you don't need to be lighter :lol: :lol:
George
That totally depends on if you're going WITH the wind or AGAINST the wind.
Depending on that fact you can get 80 mpg or 12 mpg...
And it seems wherever I go it's a headwind... :dash2:
Quote from: markmartin on October 12, 2013, 08:08:48 PM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on October 12, 2013, 07:31:05 PM
Go down to Ace, or your local hardware store, and get a threaded brass nipple sized for the vent hose.
Great idea Pat. Should the nipple you speak of look like this?
(http://m4.sourcingmap.com/photo_new/20120104/g/ux_a12010400ux0414_ux_g03.jpg)
Yea, that could work. Mine was a bit different. For the nipple in the picture, you might need to trim off the length of the nipple, down to about 5/8" length.
Also, the threads appear to be NPT and not long enough for 2 lock nuts, so I would just use a epoxy'ed washer on the base and a lock nut and washer for inside the air box.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSA%20SA58%20PARA%20Elite/DSC04645.jpg)
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9364.msg99817#msg99817 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9364.msg99817#msg99817)
I found a post searching for jetting and got a good one. My plugs are on the white side of tan. The # 1 and # 4 are whiter than the 2 in the middle. I want to buy a new exaust because mines getting old. I will need to jet the carbs for that. I'm going to clean the carbs good and see where I stand with that.
Proper way to remove the airbox is with a hammer. Makes the pods fit so much better.
Also, your nipples look really strange. Talk to your doctor.
Quote from: Joe Sull on October 13, 2013, 07:32:21 AM
I will need to jet the carbs for that. I'm going to clean the carbs good and see where I stand with that.
You may not need to rejet, your cans are already after market and more open than stock. OTOH if you go back to stock then yes, you will add a restriction and will most likely need to rejet.
"I want to buy a new exhaust because mines getting old."
New exhaust is always good, but for information you should be able to undo your cans where they attach to the intermediate pipe. Some are riveted, screwed or clamped at that point. Undo the fasteners (drill out the rivets) and you should be able to disassemble and repack your mufflers. Some packing choices are original type fiberglass, ceramic fiber or stainless steel.
The cans are Al. The "F1" decal can be removed with some mild heat and they polish up great. Take a look at Pat Conlans bike in in his post (the side picture). He and Leon are the kings of polish. :lol: I have Cobra F1's (a little different model) and am in the process of repacking and restoring them myself.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/49_13_12_09_8_22_49.jpeg)
Pats bike (sunglass's required for viewing)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/1651_16_04_13_7_35_38.jpeg)
Mine
http://shop.steelwooldirect.com/MUFF-PACK-Repacking-Kit-for-Mufflers-up-to-15-long-MP15.htm (http://shop.steelwooldirect.com/MUFF-PACK-Repacking-Kit-for-Mufflers-up-to-15-long-MP15.htm)
http://www.burnsstainless.com/sm-scrubble.aspx (http://www.burnsstainless.com/sm-scrubble.aspx)
http://www.ebay.com/bhp/motorcycle-muffler-packing (http://www.ebay.com/bhp/motorcycle-muffler-packing)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Thermal-Zero-Ceramic-exhaust-silencer-muffler-packing-kit-1-x-12-x-24-2300-F-/110975858657?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item19d6ad37e1 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Thermal-Zero-Ceramic-exhaust-silencer-muffler-packing-kit-1-x-12-x-24-2300-F-/110975858657?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item19d6ad37e1)
Something to think about this winter :music: :bye2:
George
Quote from: movenon on October 12, 2013, 06:19:26 PM
Quote from: Joe Sull on October 12, 2013, 03:28:00 PM
How do I remove the air box. Do I have to remove the carbs. The crank case vacuum tube is hanging and I cant get it back on. I cant get my fingers in there.
Where on this site can I find maintenance procedures. I did a search "air box removal" and found nothing.
Hi Joe
I will try to help out if I can. First put the bike on the center stand and remove the seat, then if you look at the side of the air box you will see a 10mm bolt, below that you will see a 17mm bolt with a locking tab. There is one on the right and left side. On the top rear of the air box you will see a 10mm bolt.
Remove the 3, 10mm bolts from the air box.
Remove the 2 , 17mm bolts on each side of the rear sub-frame (the ones below the 10mm bolts on the air box side).
The rear sub frame will "fall" or tilt down with the rear wheel on the ground.
Now you can unscrew the carb boots and unhook the crankcase hose.
The air box should now have enough room to wiggle out.
Now, just for information, this is why some convert to uni-filters. With that you have no more air box to contend with. If you keep the air that's fine, I seem to have the most trouble trying to re hook the crankcase ventilation hose, it is a pain.. It takes me a while but it will slip back on. (I have since modified my box). Maybe someone has a simple way?? In reinstalling the box, take some time and make sure the boots are sealed all the way around the each carb. Underneath is the hardest to feel/see.
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3ARPMPod&cat=39 (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3ARPMPod&cat=39)
Hope this gets you started :good2:
George
Took some digging, but I happily found this thread.
If I purchase the duals, like you linked... Do I have to rejet the carbs? I'm having a tough time trying to get my dang rubber connectors from the air box to slip on the carb stacks. I noticed the vent hose was left loose and I'm sure this has something to do with the rough idle. Can someone post pics of their dual filter setup, along with what you did with the crank case vent hose?
Thanks in advance!
Quote from: flipstyledsm22 on September 17, 2020, 11:15:49 AM
Took some digging, but I happily found this thread.
If I purchase the duals, like you linked... Do I have to rejet the carbs? I'm having a tough time trying to get my dang rubber connectors from the air box to slip on the carb stacks. I noticed the vent hose was left loose and I'm sure this has something to do with the rough idle. Can someone post pics of their dual filter setup, along with what you did with the crank case vent hose?
Thanks in advance!
With great patients and steady hands, I was able to massage the air box and rubber connectors on... It was a PITA to get the crank case vent connected! I got it connected, but I know I WILL be replacing it soon with a better alternative. I found what looks to be a filtered plastic fitting on one of the carbs vent hoses. I looked everywhere and could not locate an opening to screw it into. Could someone explain what it is used for?
I used the tool as Dean's son had designed to get the boots on. Worked great!
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=19343.135 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=19343.135)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/6694_02_07_20_10_42_14_0.jpeg)
That same tool is good for lining up the vent tube so you can push it in with a big flat screwdriver. I got really good at it after a few times. I'm a big fan of keeping things stock.