I've been reading about the Dremel method for removing the lower race. 
My Haynes manual suggests the use of a tool similar to this:
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31KWzJnHniL.jpg)
Has anybody here successfully used a tool like this to drive out the race? 
Or is it better to stick with the Dremel method...
/Nat
			
			
			
				That would work on some head bearing races, but not on the FJ lower.  There is no "lip" to grab on to so that tool has nothing to grip.
Cap'n Ron. . . 
			
			
			
				cap'n Ron is right.........don't waste your time/money unless you want to use it on a different bike. 
			
			
			
				Quote from: Travis398 on September 20, 2013, 04:08:13 PM
cap'n Ron is right.........don't waste your time/money unless you want to use it on a different bike. 
Oh well, Dremel it is then. 
First I have to gather some courage... at least now I know what I have to deal with. 
 :dash2:
Thanks!  :hi:
			
 
			
			
				Quote from: WhiteBeard on September 20, 2013, 10:12:04 AM
Or is it better to stick with the Dremel method...
Use your dremel to make notches for this tool to fit in.  Cutting through the race will almost certainly cut into the frame somewhat.  I found you could take out a bunch of material right at the physical top of the bearing and use a tool like this to drive the bearing out.  
I think the welding method sounds best though.  Weld on a bolt and use a slide hammer...  can't remember where I saw this?
Frank
			
 
			
			
				Quote from: WhiteBeard on September 20, 2013, 04:09:29 PM
Oh well, Dremel it is then. 
First I have to gather some courage... 
No courage needed. If you nick the frame with the Dremel, it doesn't matter.
As far as welding a bolt on goes, the heat from the welding alone is likely to be enough to do the trick. I would be welding (mig) a few spots on it just for the heat. 
Noel
			
 
			
			
				Frank has a good idea there. I just did mine using a Dremel. Min. nicking of the frame. Has to be one of the hardest jobs on the FJ that I have done.  :dash2:
But I have no experience tearing into the engine so there might be something more difficult there.... :biggrin:
George
			
			
			
				If you have access to a mig welder you can just do what I did and weld a bead along the inside of the bearing race. The Heat from the weld shrunk the metal and it just about dropped out. (Tapped it with the edge of an alignment punch.) Just be prepared to touch up the paint on the frame... (opps)
			
			
			
				Quote from: skymasteres on September 22, 2013, 11:01:17 PM
If you have access to a mig welder you can just do what I did and weld a bead along the inside of the bearing race. The Heat from the weld shrunk the metal and it just about dropped out. (Tapped it with the edge of an alignment punch.) Just be prepared to touch up the paint on the frame... (opps)
I have a Miller Matic 35 and I would do that as a last resort. Not being a professional welder  (I have been "farm" welding for over 30 years) I have to say one of the things I really hate is over head welding.  :ireful: I was also concerned with "aw shit, I just tacked the race to the frame".... and wanted to avoid putting heat into the head. If I had the frame only and could turn it upside down I might have been more tempted. 
If I ever have to do another one I think that I might try what Frank suggested I would have to build or buy a tool but that doesn't look hard. 
And for anyone that hasn't done head bearings. To install the lower race, just tap it in until it is flush with the lower head rim. The race has to go up further to seat.
Install the upper and lower bearings and steering stem, tighten down on the ring nut and the lower race will pull up into position. You could also use a short piece of pipe for a spacer and use the top nut to tighten up the assembly. This will take about 30 - 40 ft lbs to pull the race up into position. You will feel it when it stops.  Uninstall the steering stem and inspect that race is back up where it belongs then reinstall. Install dust cover, TQ the ring nut to 2.2 ft lbs. install the rubber washer (important) , finger tighten the top ring nut, install lock ring, steering crown, and steering top nut (TQ 80 ft Lbs).
Note: the ring nuts have an up and down position. Yamaha has a bold note to always install the tapered edge of the ring nut facing down.
In my opinion have a shop press on the lower bearing to the steering stem. They should not charge more that 15 or 20 dollars and it is money well spent. They can do it while you wait.... Any machine shop can do it. Or if you know someone with a press then perhaps a six pack might get her done....  :lol:
George
			
 
			
			
				Quote from: movenon on September 22, 2013, 11:57:31 PM
In my opinion have a shop press on the lower bearing to the steering stem. They should not charge more that 15 or 20 dollars and it is money well spent.  Or if you know someone with a press then perhaps a six pack might get her done....  :lol:
George
I've got a press and I'd do it...and most things mechanical...for a mere "thank you!"  Of course if you showed up with a sixer, it'd make the job go smoother!   :yes:
When I was working in the bicycle shop on the beach in San Diego, people would come in with some emergency and want to be put in the front of the line.  Something like a headset rebuild...or a bottom bracket overhaul.  "Can't you do it while I wait???"  I would ask them, "Have you seen our sign?"  They'd have to lean in...crane their neck a bit, but behind the counter was a sign that read, "Mechanics prefer Molson."  I would usually get a knowing nod and a query as to who sold the fine Canadian Ale all the way down in San Diego.  I'd direct them to the only store in town that carried it and knew it would take them about an hour to return.  Just about the time I needed to fix said crankset.  :biggrin: :biggrin:
Cap'n Ron. . .
			
 
			
			
				Quote from: movenon on September 22, 2013, 11:57:31 PM
I have a Miller Matic 35 and I would do that as a last resort. Not being a professional welder  (I have been "farm" welding for over 30 years) I have to say one of the things I really hate is over head welding.
George
George, if you have been "farm" welding for 30 years you are more than qualified, and you own a mig. You know how much heat they put into something and how quickly. I would be surprised if you needed more than a couple of tacks. You are not 
welding overhead as such, you are just getting heat into it.
I wouldn't worry about the heat going into the frame.
Do you have an auto darkening helmet? (for the welder, not the bike)
Noel
			
 
			
			
				No, my helmet is old fashion... I know, the auto darkening ones work great I just never have bothered to get one. When my current helmet breaks I will get in this century  :lol:. 
I still don't like overhead work with a welder... It is just something I resist.  :mad:  :lol:
In the discussion of the head bearings. In reference to the TQ of 2.2 ft lb's. I made a tool to do this and have a TQ wrench capable of the low TQ setting, but I have been thinking about options for others that do not have the same tool.
Been looking for a cheap ring nut wrench with the idea of roughly copying the pivot point of the Yamaha tool (est. about 2 - 2 1/2 inch's from the nut center) at that point drill a hole and (don't laugh), use a digital fish scale (cheap on e bay) to pull 2.2 Lbs ?
Always thinking, sometimes those thoughts slip out into my fingers..... :dash2: :lol: 
George
			
			
			
				Quote from: movenon on September 23, 2013, 08:00:22 PM
No, my helmet is old fashion... I know, the auto darkening ones work great I just never have bothered to get one. When my current helmet breaks I will get in this century  :lol:. 
George
George, I can't believe this. The only possible reason I can think of is you have never used one. I now understand your fear of welding the race to the frame! I spent 20 years welding everything within a 6" radius of the job until I got one. I got it when they were fairly new and it cost $240. They are now very affordable.
Go and buy one tomorrow and you will wonder why you didn't do it years ago. Waiting for the current one to break is too long. 
This will improve your welding more than going from stick to mig.
The difference is night and day.
Noel
			
 
			
			
				Quote from: ribbert on September 24, 2013, 10:10:00 AM
Quote from: movenon on September 23, 2013, 08:00:22 PM
No, my helmet is old fashion... I know, the auto darkening ones work great I just never have bothered to get one. When my current helmet breaks I will get in this century  :lol:. 
George
George, I can't believe this. The only possible reason I can think of is you have never used one. I now understand your fear of welding the race to the frame! I spent 20 years welding everything within a 6" radius of the job until I got one. I got it when they were fairly new and it cost $240. They are now very affordable.
Go and buy one tomorrow and you will wonder why you didn't do it years ago. Waiting for the current one to break is too long. 
This will improve your welding more than going from stick to mig.
The difference is night and day.
Noel
OK, you got me looking .... :lol:   
This one is on sale for 39.99  http://www.harborfreight.com/blue-flame-design-auto-darkening-welding-helmet-91214.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiMzI0NDMyNjMiLCJza3UiOiI5MTIxNCIsImlzIjoiMzkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk%0D%0AIjoiMjI5NiJ9%0D%0A (http://www.harborfreight.com/blue-flame-design-auto-darkening-welding-helmet-91214.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiMzI0NDMyNjMiLCJza3UiOiI5MTIxNCIsImlzIjoiMzkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk%0D%0AIjoiMjI5NiJ9%0D%0A)
George
			
 
			
			
				This one is only $29.99 with free shipping, You can get them cheaper if play the bidding game. I got one for $16  
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Frree-ship-WELDING-HELMET-AUTO-DARKENING-ROD-STICK-MIG-TIG-ARC-Mask-1000-AE-/130979139757?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e7ef710ad&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Frree-ship-WELDING-HELMET-AUTO-DARKENING-ROD-STICK-MIG-TIG-ARC-Mask-1000-AE-/130979139757?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e7ef710ad&vxp=mtr) 
			
			
			
				I'm in the same boat as George...been welding with the old helmet I bought with my MIG rig when the auto-darkening helmets were $250!!   :shok:
I had no idea they have come down so much!  Placing an order today!
Cap'n Ron. . .
			
			
			
				I had one of the cheaper auto darkening helmets when they were first under$100 , was ok but couldn't see much unless the shed lights were on, or welding outside, , bought another recently , $30 brilliant helmet, screen has a yellow lens ,and  can see perfectly before even striking an arc in most  light conditions ,
			
			
			
				Quote from: movenon on September 24, 2013, 02:34:04 PM
Quote from: ribbert on September 24, 2013, 10:10:00 AM
Quote from: movenon on September 23, 2013, 08:00:22 PM
No, my helmet is old fashion... I know, the auto darkening ones work great I just never have bothered to get one. When my current helmet breaks I will get in this century  :lol:. 
George
George, I can't believe this. The only possible reason I can think of is you have never used one. I now understand your fear of welding the race to the frame! I spent 20 years welding everything within a 6" radius of the job until I got one. I got it when they were fairly new and it cost $240. They are now very affordable.
Go and buy one tomorrow and you will wonder why you didn't do it years ago. Waiting for the current one to break is too long. 
This will improve your welding more than going from stick to mig.
The difference is night and day.
Noel
OK, you got me looking .... :lol:   
This one is on sale for 39.99  http://www.harborfreight.com/blue-flame-design-auto-darkening-welding-helmet-91214.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiMzI0NDMyNjMiLCJza3UiOiI5MTIxNCIsImlzIjoiMzkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk%0D%0AIjoiMjI5NiJ9%0D%0A (http://www.harborfreight.com/blue-flame-design-auto-darkening-welding-helmet-91214.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiMzI0NDMyNjMiLCJza3UiOiI5MTIxNCIsImlzIjoiMzkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk%0D%0AIjoiMjI5NiJ9%0D%0A)
George
 I have the UNflamed version, works pretty good, and the price was right.....
			
 
			
			
				Quote from: ribbert on September 24, 2013, 10:10:00 AM
Quote from: movenon on September 23, 2013, 08:00:22 PM
No, my helmet is old fashion... I know, the auto darkening ones work great I just never have bothered to get one. When my current helmet breaks I will get in this century  :lol:. 
George
George, I can't believe this. The only possible reason I can think of is you have never used one. I now understand your fear of welding the race to the frame! I spent 20 years welding everything within a 6" radius of the job until I got one. I got it when they were fairly new and it cost $240. They are now very affordable.
Go and buy one tomorrow and you will wonder why you didn't do it years ago. Waiting for the current one to break is too long. 
This will improve your welding more than going from stick to mig.
The difference is night and day.
Noel
OK Noel, I am in this century now. I bought a new auto darkening welding hood form H.F. for 39.99. Tomorrow I will test her out. It has good visibility. In my garage just day light conditions with the hood down I can read the instructions so I guess it's pretty clear. 
Looks like it is a pretty good unit for home use. The plastic isn't as thick or solid as my old hood but it will last me a long time as I do not do all the welding that I use to do. No more cab clips , front end clips etc's.. Just my own small stuff and bailing the neighbors out occasionally. 
George
			
 
			
			
				Quote from: movenon on September 27, 2013, 08:53:02 PM
OK Noel, I am in this century now. I bought a new auto darkening welding hood form H.F. for 39.99. Tomorrow I will test her out. It has good visibility. In my garage just day light conditions with the hood down I can read the instructions so I guess it's pretty clear. 
Looks like it is a pretty good unit for home use. The plastic isn't as thick or solid as my old hood but it will last me a long time as I do not do all the welding that I use to do. No more cab clips , front end clips etc's.. Just my own small stuff and bailing the neighbors out occasionally. 
George
Whoopee George, You're gonna love it. You will find yourself looking for things to weld now. Let us know how you like it.
Noel
			
 
			
			
				Quote from: ribbert on September 28, 2013, 10:13:22 AM
Quote from: movenon on September 27, 2013, 08:53:02 PM
OK Noel, I am in this century now. I bought a new auto darkening welding hood form H.F. for 39.99. Tomorrow I will test her out. It has good visibility. In my garage just day light conditions with the hood down I can read the instructions so I guess it's pretty clear. 
Looks like it is a pretty good unit for home use. The plastic isn't as thick or solid as my old hood but it will last me a long time as I do not do all the welding that I use to do. No more cab clips , front end clips etc's.. Just my own small stuff and bailing the neighbors out occasionally. 
George
Whoopee George, You're gonna love it. You will find yourself looking for things to weld now. Let us know how you like it.
Noel
Yup, you're going to wonder why the hell you did not spend that $39.00 before this....
Dan
			
 
			
			
				Thanks for all the prodding to get an auto-darkening helmet!  This just showed up today!!   :yahoo::
(http://www.weld-tech.co.za/images/speedglas%20100vdiagram.jpg)
The headband on this one is very comfortable, is adjustable for fit in four ways and the clicker/tensioner actually stays where you put it!  I'm wearing it as I type this!   :biggrin:  
WHY did I not get this sooner?  I've got a welding project coming up in a week or two...I can't wait to try it out!
Cap'n Ron. . .
			
			
			
				I used mine the other day and I am still trying to break myself of automatically flipping up the hood after each weld  :lol: Old habits.... The hood seems to work fine. Especially for 40 dollars ! 
George
			
			
			
				Quote from: movenon on October 04, 2013, 08:42:22 PM
I used mine the other day and I am still trying to break myself of automatically flipping up the hood after each weld  :lol: Old habits.... The hood seems to work fine. Especially for 40 dollars ! 
George
I read your comment about breaking old habits (flipping up) in another thread.  When this helmet showed up, I got it all adjusted and wore it around the house.  I even shot a game of pool with it on!!!
How are your weld starts compared to using your old helmet?
Cap'n Ron. . .
			
 
			
			
				Quote from: Capn Ron on October 04, 2013, 10:38:23 PM
Quote from: movenon on October 04, 2013, 08:42:22 PM
I used mine the other day and I am still trying to break myself of automatically flipping up the hood after each weld  :lol: Old habits.... The hood seems to work fine. Especially for 40 dollars ! 
George
I read your comment about breaking old habits (flipping up) in another thread.  When this helmet showed up, I got it all adjusted and wore it around the house.  I even shot a game of pool with it on!!!
How are your weld starts compared to using your old helmet?
Cap'n Ron. . .
Starts are more accurate, I am going to turn up the darkening a bit. It is at mid range right now. Also going to shorten up the "back to normal" time a little. 
I can read with mine on in the garage with just normal daylight. Pretty impressed considering the low price. Wish I would have had one years ago when I was doing a lot of welding. 
George  :drinks:
			
 
			
			
				Quote from: Capn Ron on October 04, 2013, 06:03:36 PM
Thanks for all the prodding to get an auto-darkening helmet!  This just showed up today!!   :yahoo::
(http://www.weld-tech.co.za/images/speedglas%20100vdiagram.jpg)
The headband on this one is very comfortable, is adjustable for fit in four ways and the clicker/tensioner actually stays where you put it!  I'm wearing it as I type this!   :biggrin:  
WHY did I not get this sooner?  I've got a welding project coming up in a week or two...I can't wait to try it out!
Cap'n Ron. . .
You know Cap'n, that is the EXACT "Speedglas" helmet I paid $240 for about 10 years ago.
			
 
			
			
				Quote from: ribbert on October 05, 2013, 04:32:01 AM
You know Cap'n, that is the EXACT "Speedglas" helmet I paid $240 for about 10 years ago.
How is it holding up?
This was right around $140...so not too bad.  I also got a pack of 10 replacement lenses for the outside and 5 for the inside.  I think this should last many years!
Cap'n Ron. . .
			
 
			
			
				Quote from: Capn Ron on October 05, 2013, 04:46:55 AM
Quote from: ribbert on October 05, 2013, 04:32:01 AM
You know Cap'n, that is the EXACT "Speedglas" helmet I paid $240 for about 10 years ago.
How is it holding up?
This was right around $140...so not too bad.  I also got a pack of 10 replacement lenses for the outside and 5 for the inside.  I think this should last many years!
Cap'n Ron. . .
It's not only holding up, I have never even changed the battery!  I keep making notes to remind myself and keep forgetting. I only think of as I'm about to use it. It's VERY fast. They were the best you could get at the time.
Noel