Working on bikes, I see a lot of Phillips screws getting torn up. Not every cross-headed screw is a Phillips (there are Reed & Prince, and other types). Your best friend here can be a small "tackle box." holding as many varieties of Apex bits as you can find. You also want a few hex "screwdrivers" to hold these Apex bits, such as stubby, long, one with wrench flats near the handle, and maybe an impact driver (using a hammer for rotation). At a minimum, you want to have Phillips bits sized 00, 0, 1, 2, 3, and maybe 4. There are lots of odd ideas out there about Phillips heads, and even a cheap box of assorted Apex bits may have useful bits.
Industrial standard, for Phillips: If a Phillips screw is set in a vertical wall, you should be able to insert a Phillips screwdriver in the head, and let it go. If the screwdriver falls out, either the screw head or the screwdriver is worn beyond limits. You should also be able to put that same screw on the end of the screwdriver, tilt the screwdriver downward, and have the screw fall off the end of the driver (but not when the screwdriver is held horizontally). Fail either test, and you will probably not have a great impression of Phillips screws. Pass both tests, and you will soon realize what a fine invention the Phillips screw head really is.
Apex bits make it easy to own an amazing variety of "screwdrivers." It's cheap to dispose of worn-out bits, and get new ones. Bit-holders let you use Apex bits with ratchet wrenches and extensions of all sizes. You can get adapters to put wrench sockets on hex shafts, to fit hex screwdrivers (your entire socket set will become nut-drivers). Fill the other tackle-box bins with Phillips, common, spline, Torx, Allen, and other specialty bits, and you're all set.
A powered hex screwdriver with a torque-limiting adjustment feature will be a great help to you, also. I got fairly spoiled by mine, very soon. One day I asked a guy to hand me a screwdriver, and he gave me a nice, clear-handled screwdriver. I turned it over three times, looking at it from every angle, and held it out to him. I asked him, "How do you turn it on?" :rofl2:
Great info on Phillips screwdrivers and fasteners! Have not heard those "tests" before.
I also have a handful of screwdrivers "modified" to suit. Often the screws on motorcycles require a "blunted" phillips screw driver to fit properly. Generally a light touch on a grinding wheel makes for a very snug fit and prevents a stripped fastener.
This might help as well. I have tried these and the demo is phenomenal. While applying normal pressure to drive a screw into a wood block and twisting just enough to start the screw to turn, while maintaining torque, I could not pull the screwdriver out of the screw. If I had not experienced this first hand I would not believe it. I am searching the web to see if they make bits, they claim to have bits that are diamond coated and have the same effect as the laser etch.
Wera Lasertip: Anti cam-out non-slip screwdriver tips (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-rcAPfvQxbI#ws)
Quote from: fj1289 on September 13, 2013, 09:47:03 AM
I also have a handful of screwdrivers "modified" to suit. Often the screws on motorcycles require a "blunted" phillips screw driver to fit properly. Generally a light touch on a grinding wheel makes for a very snug fit and prevents a stripped fastener.
Exactly what I have done, and it works great. Harbor Fright free with tips ground off a bit.
I've read that a dab of valving grinding compound applied to the screwdriver's tip before usage provides extra bite to resist torque-out too. Never tried it since I don't have any laying around, but it sounds viabke.
Marty
I bought a box of 6 PH bits for my drill a few years ago. They cost a staggering $40. An in store demo sold me though. You could hang the whole drill from a wall screw! When tightened it would rip the drill out of your hand rather than lift out of the screw head. Sadly, I eventually used of lost them all and have never seen them for sale since.
One of the problems with bikes is this:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7346/9733796703_0cedaffd02_z.jpg)
I've been using these
(http://mcdn.toolking.com/catalog/product/w/1/w1390_1.jpg)
In one of these for years on cars and bikes.
(http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/msgZolrPk_MC2tHG3z1zyKw.jpg)
But, as I said earlier, I am reluctant to recommend anything with it's own power source for automotive work UNLESS you are very familiar with the tool.
Quote from: ribbert on September 13, 2013, 10:24:14 AM
I bought a box of 6 PH bits for my drill a few years ago. They cost a staggering $40. An in store demo sold me though. You could hang the whole drill from a wall screw! When tightened it would rip the drill out of your hand rather than lift out of the screw head. Sadly, I eventually used of lost them all and have never seen them for sale since.
Ribbert,
Yep, seen it, and they did not need laser etching, or industrial diamonds at the tip. Apex met the specs, that's all. Apex is a brand name, like Kleenex. Just like Kleenex, now, lots of companies make generic "equivalent" products. They look like "apex" bits, but are much cheaper than the high-quality original.
You probably bought the original Apex brand bits, and I don't know of any better bits, anywhere. Fastenal.com (and their brick-and-mortar stores) now sell the real Apex bits, typically for ~US$2.50 each, where the cheap imports may cost five dollars per dozen. I think you will recognize the Apex quality that you remember, when you have put some hard use on their products.
Cheers,
Red
Thanks Red, I am in Australia but I would go to the trouble of chasing them up in the States if I have to. They were that good! I use them all day at work so it makes a big difference.
Thanks for the lead, I will see what I can find.
Noel
A little perspective on screwdriver brands. A good quality screwdriver is also important. Craftsman, Proto, Blackhawk, Stanley, Snap-On, Mac, Matco, Greenlee, Klein and Wiha and a few other well known brands fit the bill. In my experience in aviation. Not all of the upper quality screwdrivers are the same. Craftsman and Stanley will tear up an aircraft quality Phillips screw at a very low torque setting. For that reason and when you have an inspector following behind you and requires you to replace the buggered up screw heads. I personally have Snap-On, Mac and Greenlee Phillips screwdrivers. Justification for the added expense is granted. Cam out problems are close to non existant.
Fred
Yup, two thumbs down on the stanley phillips screwdrivers.
I bought a set of Stanley screwdrivers once.
What CRAP! I wouldn't use them to stir paint.
Good information :good2:. I like that Laser tip Wera screw driver Mark. I see they are listed at Amazon.com.. I detest those JIS screws and try to replace everyone I find with allen heads where possable but in my bike tool bag I would like to have one or two of those Wera screwdrivers dressed up for the JIS screws. They have one model with a metal head for tapping on. They also have bit kits.
George
Good stuff guys, thank you!
My brother in law is a chippy and 'showed me light' as far a Wera bits are concerned. They are phenomenal, expensive but great. They do not cam out or wear. In an impact driver they are a force to be reckoned with. Although when they do finally give up the ghost the bits tend to shear in half, but that is still with the abscenc of any 'rounding off' of the original profile.
Great write up Red :good2:
Just goes to prove that there is no substitute for good tools. They do not have to be the most expensive...but for the best part, you do get what you pay for :good:
I would also urge people to buy 'on shore' products where possible. Some of the 'off shore' hardware/tools coming in to North America is nothing short of shite!!!
John.
I agree that the Wera drivers are expensive but I think one driver and keep it on the bike for motorcycle use only is a good idea. In a perfect world Wera would make a laser tip JIS driver with what they call a "chisel" head (metal on top of the driver to tap on it, like a chisel) ....
Still not a fan of soft / crappy JIS screws but they do exist and have to contended with. My thought is, anyone that hasn't buggered a JIS screw up has never done much work to his or her motorcycle. There are a couple of dedicated motorcycle/FJ tools I want to buy yet and a good driver or 2 are on the list.
George
Here's my two bits worth:
Snap-On's apex-style phillips' bits come in what they call "ACR" style. They have small ridges perpendicular to the axis of the bit. Looks like the teeth on a fine file, this gives them REALLY good grip and helps prevent caming-out. Pretty much the only thing we used on the airplanes, even though we have to buy them ourselves, (not too pricey, got the job done right), the company supplied bits, but they were shit. (Have you ever experienced the joy of snapping off FIVE bits in a row trying to extract one screw?!)
As for the valve grinding compound trick: it works great. The company actually stocked the stuff to help out. A couple of tips: use a dab on the tip of the bit when you feel the screw starting to go; before you strip it out!
If you can, use a speed handle with a knob on the end, this will allow you to lean on it, supplying enough downward pressure to keep it from camming out. (There were a few times I had light bruising on my chest the next day from trying to save panels with a few hundred screws in them.) If you needed valve compound to take it out, throw it straight into the trash, no questions.
Don't use compound to install screws, or remove them as a matter of course. It'll rapidly wear stuff down, and there'll now be a lot of abrasive grit getting spread all over your expensive machinery; not good.
Failed? Snap-On stocks some excellent screw extractors sized to fit in a 1/2" socket; short and stumpy, never seen one break.
If you're in this for the long-haul, buy the best tools you can afford, you'll hand them down to your kids; buy cheap tools, get shit work. (Though Harbor Freight does have it's place. :yes:)
I do want to get some JIS standard cross-points; after trying to make Phillips fit Reed & Prince standard screws, (ever heard of those?), I believe. Anybody got a good source?
Sorry for the windy dissertation, but it hit a nerve. :flag_of_truce:
(I thought the therapy had helped.) :bye2: