Today decided to slip an 18 tooth on in place of the 17 and get ready for the new chain this will be after I get the bushes for the forks.All the effort in getting it running (cleaning carbs will be naught) by the time everything is back together.
While messing with sprocket suddenly remembered More Trouble I posted about earlier... Guess what the bottom bolt is snapped clean off. Does anyone on the forum have experience taking the broken bit out?What is the worst case scenario?I don't believe the engine has to come please say this is true.
I guess I will need an extra long drill for a hole for an easy out? Is there a different approach.
Chiz
Quote from: chiz on September 08, 2013, 09:23:40 PM
Today decided to slip an 18 tooth on in place of the 17 and get ready for the new chain this will be after I get the bushes for the forks.All the effort in getting it running (cleaning carbs will be naught) by the time everything is back together.
While messing with sprocket suddenly remembered More Trouble I posted about earlier... Guess what the bottom bolt is snapped clean off. Does anyone on the forum have experience taking the broken bit out?What is the worst case scenario?I don't believe the engine has to come please say this is true.
I guess I will need an extra long drill for a hole for an easy out? Is there a different approach.
Chiz
Hello, which bolt has you concerned ? Is it a side cover bolt ? More information please. :good2:
George
Could you PLEASE type in complete thoughts? You seem to NOT be able to complete a sentence. You write about a new sprocket, new chain, fork bushings and carb cleaning in the first sentence then suddenly there is a bolt snapped off.
WTF? Stop and THINK about what you're asking for then type an intelligible sentence.
Chiz,
Yeah, tell us about just the broken bolt issue...Which bolt is snapped? This will give us an idea of the access issues you may have in extracting the broken bit. It will also let us know the diameter of the bolt. It's easier to center a drill bit on an M12 than an M4 bolt. There are also some tricks to bolt extraction...sometimes it's as easy as cutting a slot with a Dremel and backing it out with flat head screw driver. Other times, you need to *precisely* drill through the center as large as possible without nicking the aluminum threads in the block and then use and easy-out extractor.
Don't get discouraged...we're here to help and over the years I've figured out that if I'm not getting the results/answers I want, it's because I haven't been asking the right questions.
Cap'n Ron. . .
Oops ..bloody alternator
Not uncommon for one of the bolts to break on the earlier two-bolt models (the late FJ's changed the design to three bolts), it shouldn't be stuck in too bad. I used a reverse drill bit to remove mine and used a drop of medium strength loc-tite when re-installing the new bolt just 'snug'. No, you shouldn't have to remove the engine.
Wow SOUNDS GOOD A reverse drill bit is twisted opp to regular? I wonder if I can go to bolt and nut supply and get bolt of supernatural strength will that help?
Chiz
Quote from: chiz on September 09, 2013, 09:24:02 AM
Wow SOUNDS GOOD A reverse drill bit is twisted opp to regular? I wonder if I can go to bolt and nut supply and get bolt of supernatural strength will that help?
Chiz
Right, it's twisted opposite so you actually run your drill in reverse. When it starts to dig in it will start extracting the bolt, at least it did in my case. The part number for the bolt has been superseded so maybe the replacement is 'supernatural' strength'? Part number: 95027-08030-00
http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/50042592f8700209bc788263/generator (http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/50042592f8700209bc788263/generator)
Quote from: Dads_FJ on September 09, 2013, 09:40:51 AM
Right, it's twisted opposite so you actually run your drill in reverse. When it starts to dig in it will start extracting the bolt, at least it did in my case.
I do not recommend using a drill for this. The easy outs are strong but brittle and will snap off with indelicate use. A drill is too indelicate, seems to me.
Dan
Not an e-z-out or screw extractor or any other hard brittle tool bit the begs to be broken off in the broken fastener and now makes it nearly impossible to get out with anything other than EDM.
The reverse drill bits work great. Between the heat generated from the drilling and the force applied by the drill bit, usually the fastener twists right out. If you get the bit all the way through and the fastener still isn't free most of the time you can follow with the next larger bit to get it out.
I guess each method has it's pro's and con's (and risks). I've also used the technique of welding a nut to the broken stud.
(http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb37/campsimonette/Studbrokenoffflush1_zps96aa57f2.jpg) (http://s208.photobucket.com/user/campsimonette/media/Studbrokenoffflush1_zps96aa57f2.jpg.html)
(http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb37/campsimonette/Weldnuttowasher_zps6c1b1100.jpg) (http://s208.photobucket.com/user/campsimonette/media/Weldnuttowasher_zps6c1b1100.jpg.html)
It might be worth it to take some photos to a local trusted machine shop or garage and see what they think. Local guy here will do it for $25-$35 depending on if it has broken drill bits etc... ;)
http://www.billbune.com/services.html (http://www.billbune.com/services.html)
The bottom bolt is broken off flush with the motor casting so no chance to weld anything to it without damage to the motor. I am assuming the bottom hole is a blind hole where as the top one is a pass through, the bottom one is the broken one. Not too clear why the bike shop owner gave me a stud to use instead of a bolt but said a stud is better but didn't quite understand his explanation.
Chiz
OK the broken piece was extremely easy to remove about 5/8 inch of it. Half of the flat surface that the surrounds the bolt on the engine side and mates up with the alternator is eroded away. It is almost like when the bolt broke it remained there for a while and jiggled around eroding this area.
Chi
I use the reverse drill bit too. I don't put loctite on it either so the drill bit spins the bolt out with out even drilling into it.
My case is pretty worn too, I think the alternator twists a little under power and wears the case on that one side of the hole.
if you already have the motor out it is a good time to weld on a tab for the 3rd bolt, although I am told they can weld it while still in the bike.
Great into on broken bolt, just went through it, no fun, until you get it out, no problem understanding
original post, non what so ever.